There are few signifiers of American adolescent pride more potent than the varsity (or “letterman”) jacket.
With a history dating back to the 1860s, it’s one of the oldest sartorial staples without military origins still in heavy rotation. Consisting in its classic form of a melton wool body with leather sleeves, ribbed cuffs and ribbed waistband, it features a prominent chenille letter — usually the school’s initial, as in “H” for “Harvard” — and, often, the name of the owner stitched into the opposite breast. School colors readily identify the jacket as belonging to an athlete from a particular high school or university, and while traditions vary, it’s typically the case that only those who participate in winning games; receive the most field time; or are a member of a school’s varsity team (hence the name) are allowed to wear one. Totems of pride and masculinity — though they’re issued today to both men and women — the letterman jacket remains an American cultural institution.
Harvard Origins

An early photograph of Harvard College's baseball team - (Image by Historic New England)
In the mid-1860s, Harvard university began giving knitted sweaters with a large sewn “H” on their front to members of its baseball team. While MVPs and those who played in important games — such as those against arch-rivals Yale and Princeton — were allowed to keep the sweater at the end of the season, those who did not were required to return it. (The Harvard football team followed suit roughly a decade later.) Period photographs show athletes in both pull-over style sweatshirts as well as lettered cardigans, the latter of which were adopted into “coat jerseys” that could be worn during warmups. Both would continue to be worn through the turn of the 20th century.
Design

A 1949 patent for the classic varsity jacket assigned to Butwin Sportswear Company of Saint Paul, Minnesota. - (Image by Heddels)
By the 1930s, these lettered sweaters and cardigans gave way to button-up wool jackets with leather sleeves and chenille letters; by the post-War boom of the 1950s, they were as ubiquitous and as quintessentially American as apple pie. Small details varied between manufacturers, but the jacket largely followed a general pattern: It’s cut short in the manner of a cossack or motorcycle jacket, hitting roughly at the hips; a banded collar, ribbed cuffs, and a ribbed waistband — often striped — display school colors. (Earlier examples sometimes feature point collars.) A snap-button front makes for easy doffing and donning of the jacket, while dual vented pockets feature above the waistline. Sleeves are leather or faux leather, and the famous “letter” — which is generally sewn above the left breast — is made from chenille, a fabric with a protruding pile. The athlete’s name often appears in chenille or embroidery, with placement depending upon the school.
The Varsity Jacket in Collegiate Athletics

A 1940s varsity jacket produced by Butwin and sold by Spaulding Sporting Goods - (Image by Heddels)
The term “letterman” derives from the prominent chenille letter — the school initial — affixed to the varsity jacket. Traditionally, the jacket (and the sweaters and cardigans that preceded it) are awarded only to those athletes who compete at the varsity level in high school or college athletics, or to those who participate in a set number of games or achieve particular milestones. (Playing in one half or two-thirds of all matches in a season, for example, or participating in a championship game.) Traditionally, admission to the varsity team often takes place in junior or senior year of high school — thus varsity jackets are less commonly awarded and worn during freshman or sophomore years.
1980s Resurgence

Michael Jackson in a varsity jacket in the music video for Thriller - (Image by Jason Tom)
By 1980, the varsity jacket had lost some of its mojo, but the iconic music video for Michael Jackson’s seminal Thriller thrust the garment back into the public consciousness. Red and gold with a prominent chenille “M” on its left breast, the jacket worn by Jackson in the 1950s scenes reminded America of the timeless cool of this teenage sartorial staple. Films such as 1985’s The Breakfast Club and Teen Wolf both featured characters prominently wearing letterman jackets, as did the nostalgic show Happy Days, which ran from 1974 through 1984.

Salt-N-Pepa in a varsity jacket designed by Dapper Dan - (Image by Vogue)
In the late 1980s, Shawn Stüssy began producing a varsity jacket for his inner circle, further popularizing the design with the rising streetwear set. Avirex followed suit, selling a version in the popular Jimmy Jazz and Dr. Jays boutiques in NYC and adding the insignia of imaginary varsity teams. The rise of hip-hop and the proliferation of streetwear provided the perfect backdrop against which the varsity jacket could flourish: Salt-N-Pepa wore versions designed by streetwear scion Dapper Dan in the 1987 music video for Push It, while Fat Joe donned one for LL Cool J’s 1995 I Shot Ya (Remix), after which local NYC shops could scarcely keep them on shelves. No longer was the varsity jacket the sole purview of a (largely white) Ivy League collegiate and high school athletes — now, it was a universally adopted symbol, worn either sincerely or ironically — of American youth culture.
The Varsity Jacket Today

Celine Homme Logo-Appliquéd Virgin Wool-Blend and Leather Varsity Jacket - (Image by Mr.Porter)
Due in no small part to its customizability — it was designed, after all, to be “decorated” with letters, insignia, and numbers particular to its wearer — the varsity jacket has been widely adopted by brands large and small in their quest to tap into American sartorial history. Today, companies such as Ebbets Field and Dehen 1920 make throwback versions of vintage examples from the mid-20th century, while upscale makers such as Valstar and Celine offer their own takes using fine materials and painstaking production methods. Meanwhile, high schools and colleges across the United States continue to offer young athletes the chance to don this sartorial staple — provided, of course, that they earn the right to do so.
Here are a few of our favorite commercially available versions of the letterman jacket.
Thursday Boot Company Varsity Jacket ($340)

Thursday Boot Company Varsity Jacket - SHOP HERE
Looking for a simple letterman-style jacket without the callout to a particular team or school? Thursday Boot Company’s Varsity Jacket is just the ticket: Crafted from a 17 oz. wool blend with pebbled cow leather sleeves, it features YYK metal snap buttons; a ribbed collar, cuffs, and waistband; Loftherm insulation; twin side pockets and an internal breast pocket; and more.
Ebbets Field New York Black Yankees 1940 Authentic Wool & Leather Varsity Jacket ($595)

New York Black Yankees 1940 Authentic Wool & Leather Varsity Jacket - SHOP HERE
A perfect reproduction of a varsity jacket belonging to the Negro National League’s New York Black Yankees, this varsity jacket — with tan leather sleeves, a 100% wool body, and felt lettering — is a thing of beauty. A portion of the proceeds from its sale benefits the Negro Leagues Baseball Museum (NLBM) in Kansas City.
Hermès Varsity Jacket with Clou de Selle Detail ($1,950)

Hermès Varsity jacket with Clou de Selle detail - SHOP HERE
If you want varsity jacket inspiration with more luxurious detailing, look to Hermès: Its own Italian-made Varsity Jacket with Clou de Selle Detail in 100% cotton jersey boasts a rib-trim collar, cuffs, and bottom; zipped side pockets; long raglan sleeves; and a front with an embroidered Clou de Selle patch. Available in several colors, it looks particularly fetching in blue.