Welcome! In this series, we highlight some of the most compelling new watches that have entered the A:S inventory each month.
Boy, do we have some cool stuff in store for you in October. In addition to a double-signed field watch and a wildly cool Omega from the 1970s, there are multiple unusual chronographs — the kind devoid of traditional chrono totalizers — as well as an early Travel Time model from Patek Philippe. In other news, we’ve sourced a 1950s-era cocktail watch from JLC with a Calibre 101 hand-wound movement; an insanely cool Hamilton Thin-O-Matic in multiple shades of gold; and a Movado that likely functioned as a dealer’s display model. Check out the embarrassment of riches available below, and be sure to reach out to us to come check out our NYC showroom.
Hamilton Khaki Field 'L.L. Bean' ($1,100)
Hamilton Khaki Field 'L.L. Bean' - IN THE SHOP
Hamilton’s Khaki line evolved out of the field watches it made for the U.S. and allied militaries during much of the 20th century — especially those that date from the 1960s and 1970s. In the 1980s, the brand began retailing certain of these designs via the foremost outdoor outfitters in the United States, among which was L.L. Bean. Measuring 36mm and fitted with a black tritium dial, it calls to mind the hand-wound pieces made for the British Ministry of Defense in the 1970s — though its automatic movement and date window give it more utility. Comfortable and reliable, it’s a collectible, standout piece in a sea of same-same tool watch fare.
Seiko Speedtimer ($1,150)
Seiko Speedtimer - IN THE SHOP
Similar to certain vintage Omega Dynamic models, this 1970s-era Seiko Speedtimer Ref. 7017-6040 is a simplified take on the common chronograph: While it features no minute or hour recorders, operation of the pushers control the central seconds hand, allowing recording time of up to one minute. The crown, meanwhile, sets the time; controls the inner rotating bezel; sets the date via turning; and sets the day window via a pushing action. Combined with a colorful dial and a cool stainless steel bracelet, this functionality punches well above its weight class, offering a mix of cool looks and utility that was commonplace 50 years ago.
Omega De Ville 'TV' ($2,550)
Omega De Ville 'TV' - IN THE SHOP
Of all the famed watch brands, Omega is among those with the most wide-ranging and adventurous back catalog: Take this De Ville Ref. 151.0051 “TV,” for example: Produced in the 1970s, it features a 36mm stainless steel cushion case whose silhouette gives it the aspect of an old tube-powered television set. Beyond its striking form factor, however, it’s also quite a good-looking watch: The multi-tone silver and grey dial is sparse, with a contrasting outer section featuring thin black indices and a small ‘pencil’ handset. That’s it! An Omega automatic movement provides timepeeking duties, while the blue calfskin strap we’ve paired it with provides a pop of welcome contrast.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Cocktail Watch ($2,750)
Jaeger-Lecoultre Cocktail Watch - IN THE SHOP
The mind-bogglingly tiny Calibre 101 — to this day the world’s smallest hand-wound movement — powered a wide array of incredible cocktail watches in the mid-20th century. (In fact, it still does, though these form a smaller part of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s modern production.) This stunning piece from the 1950s is emblematic of this style: Housed in a 15mm yellow gold case, it features a tremendously cool shaped case in the style of Gilbert Albert for Patek Philippe, plus a simple silvered dial with subtle black indices and a gold ‘leaf’ handset. Paired to a black lizard strap, this beautiful timekeeper is ready for the red carpet!
Hamilton Thin-O-Matic ($3,250)
Hamilton Thin-O-Matic - IN THE SHOP
We’ll bet a pretty penny that you’ve never seen anything quite like this Hamilton Thin-O-Matic before: Dating to the 1960s, everything about it is outré…and wonderful. First, there’s the round yellow gold case with its lovely shaped lugs; then there’s the spectacular multi-tone dial in shades of gold and silver with both applied gold as well as printed black indices — plus a spectacularly cool, blued-steel handset; then there’s the glorious black and gold calfskin strap with a gold-tone pin buckle. Powered by a micro-rotor automatic movement, it’s one of the brand’s most thoughtfully conceived watches, and a gem of midcentury industrial design.
Jaquet Droz Lady 8 'Aventurine' ($5,650)
Jaquet Droz Lady 'Aventurine' - IN THE SHOP
While Jaquet Droz is frequently eclipsed in the press by other Swatch Group brands, it produced an extensive range of compelling pieces that warrant your attention. For the ladies, there’s the Lady 8 collection — a series of compelling cocktail watches featuring an unusually-shaped case. The iteration we have here is particularly striking: Its teardrop-shaped silhouette is set with aventurine both within the dial as well as within the upper lug, which is also set with diamonds. Fitted with an automatic movement and paired to a black alligator leather strap, it’s perfect for someone in search of a modern, avant-garde dress watch.
Mido Multi-Centerchrono ($5,950)
Mido Multi-Centerchrono - IN THE SHOP
Speaking of unusual chronographs, feast your eyes on the Mido Multi-Centerchrono: You might notice that its multi-scale dial has no minute or hour recorders, but rather, an extra centrally-mounted hand — this is actually a central minute counter hand, which is used to record elapsed time up to one hour. You may also have noticed the “mushroom”-pattern chronograph pushers, which are typically seen on the famed Patek Philippe Ref. 1463 chronograph. This is because — you guessed it — François Borgel (later Taubert Frères) manufactured both cases, which is an early waterproof design with a screw-down caseback. Pretty cool!
Movado 431 Tri-Tone 'Salesman Sample' ($9,750)
Movado 431 Tri-Tone 'Salesman Sample' - IN THE SHOP
And now for something completely different: This striking Movado is very likely a salesman’s demonstration watch: Housed in a solid gold case, it features an openworked dial displaying the Calibre 431 automatic movement within, which is also visible via a transparent caseback crystal. Proudly signed “MOVADO 431” along the rehaut and “28 JEWELS” as well as “SWITZERLAND” on the caseback, it’s paired to a wildly exotic tri-tone gold bracelet. Pre-dating the era of open casebacks by several decades, this piece is simply spectacular, with the gold content being a strict bonus. Don’t pass this one up — it’s likely that you’ll never find another.
Cartier Tank Louis XL ($14,950)
Cartier Tank Louis XL - IN THE SHOP
Though the simple and elegant Tank Louis is well known to collectors, the complicated “XL” version often flies well under the radar. Executed in rose gold and fitted with a striking brown guilloché dial, it boasts dual complications: While a power reserve indicator sits at the lower quadrant above 6 o’clock, a date display with a pointer indicator is poised below the 12 o'clock indicator. Combining influences from dashboard instruments with the Tank’s legacy as a traditional dress watch, this large Reference W1560002 - 3185 is an unusual piece that begs a closer look. (It even features a sapphire caseback window through which it’s possible to view its hand-wound movement.)
Patek Philippe Calatrava Travel Time ($32,500)
Patek Philippe Calatrava Travel Time - IN THE SHOP
What’s going on with this gold Patek, you might ask — why all the extra buttons, hands, and displays? This Reference 5034/1J is an early Travel Time model: Using the left-hand buttons, the wearer can jump the secondary time zone — as displayed via an extra, centrally-mounted hour hand — in one-hour increments, while its white dial provides not only subsidiary seconds, but also a 24-hour indicator. With its Clous de Paris bezel, printed black ‘Breguet’ indices, blued steel and gold ‘leaf’ handset, and sumptuous yellow gold bracelet, this thin and dressy traveler’s watch is a study in refined elegance.
