Two years ago, we rounded up 10 stunners from our inventory, all of which offered compelling good looks, fascinating stories, and — most of all — outsized value for under $5,000. Now, we’re revisiting our current crop of top-tier timepieces to gather a dozen more watches for your viewing pleasure. From rare chronographs to patinated divers, from Tank-like dress watches to solid-gold showstoppers, these pieces run the gamut from household-name brands to under-the-radar value plays. One thing unites them all: In typical Analog:Shift fashion, each is a horological history lesson in miniature, a peek into an earlier time that helps contextualize the horological narrative. If nothing else, these pieces are worthy of your attention. And if you’d like to see one in person? Drop us a line via our website and we’d be happy to have you join us in our showroom in New York City!
Hamilton Pan-Europ ($4,950)
Hamilton Pan-Europ - IN THE SHOP
If the Hamilton Pan-Europ looks similar to a 1970s-era Heuer Autavia, well, there’s good reason for that: The result of ‘Project 99’ — Hamilton, Heuer, Breitling, Buren, and Dubois-Depraz’s race to the first automatic chronograph movement — the Pan-Europ was among the first crop of such watches from the famed American-founded watchmaker. Measuring 42mm in a cushion-cased steel case, it mixes a rotating timing/12-hour bezel with an inner tachymeter scale, a two-register chronograph readout, and a date display to awesome effect. Powered by an automatic movement and featuring an excellent color scheme, it’s among the coolest of 1970s tool watches.
Tissot Navigator Yachting Chronograph 'Lemania' ($4,250)
Tissot Navigator Yachting Chronograph 'Lemania' - IN THE SHOP
This splendid Tissot Ref. 45503 chronograph is the result of an unlikely partnership: Between the 1930s and the 1980s, Tissot, Omega, and Lemania were grouped together in the Société Suisse pour l’Industrie Horlogère, or SSIH. During that period, the two watchmakers used Lemania movements to spectacular effect, including in this automatic Navigator model: Coming in at 43mm in a chunky stainless steel cushion case, it features a handsome blue dial with an outer tachymeter track and 15-minute yachting countdown timer; applied and luminous hour indices; a dual-register chronograph display with 12-hour and running seconds registers; and a luminous ‘sword’ handset with a central minutes counter hand topped with a plane-shaped arrow.
Hamilton Super Compressor 600 Diver ($3,450)
Hamilton Super Compressor 600 Diver - IN THE SHOP
Though good ole’ screw-down crowns proved to be more effective at preventing water incursion into a watch case than the Compressor system designed by EPSA — one in which the deeper one dives, the more water pressure there is to act on the case, theoretically rendering it more watertight — the cool aesthetics of these designs have nevertheless endeared them to generations of collectors. This Hamilton Super Compressor 600, measuring 36mm in stainless steel, is a prime example of the style: With its dual crowns — one to set the time, the other to control the internal dive bezel — and awesome tritium dial, it oozes midcentury cool.
Omega Constellation Marine Chronometer Megaquartz ($3,995)
Omega Constellation Marine Chronometer Megaquartz - IN THE SHOP
You think a 5 Hz (36,000 vph) watch movement is fast? How about a 2.5 Megahertz watch movement, which beats at an astounding 2,500,000 Hz?! While it may be a quartz calibre rather than a mechanical one, the Omega cal. 1500 powering this futuristic version of the Constellation is a seriously impressive horological achievement. Housed in a 44mm-tall x 32.5mm-wide rectangular stainless steel case with an integrated bracelet bracelet, it looks nothing like any other ‘Connie’ — not to mention any other marine chronometer! — you’ve ever seen. But back in the 1970s when brands were pushing the technological and aesthetic envelopes, this baby was positively groundbreaking.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso ($3,950)
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso - IN THE SHOP
Feast your eyes on one of the most affordable pathways into the Jaeger-Lecoultre Reverso landscape. Dating to the 2000s, this Ref. 260.8.08 mixes a quartz-powered movement with a radially brushed lavender dial fitted with stylized ‘Arabic’ indices, an inner ‘railroad’ minute track, and a cool ‘sword’ handset. Flip the dial within its 20mm by 33mm stainless steel case over, and a blank caseback is revealed — perfect for engraving, or for protecting the dial from errant polo balls. A piece of classic Art Deco industrial design, the Reverso is a classic for a reason: Thoughtfully designed and handsome, it looks appropriate in any remotely dressy setting, on any wrist.
Jacques Bianchi French Military Issue ($4,950)
Jacques Bianchi French Military Issue - IN THE SHOP
Dating to the 1990s, this 40mm cushion-shaped diver was produced by French watchmaker Jacques Bianchi for the French army (Armée de Terre). An automatic timepiece that boasts 300m of water resistance, it present a potent mix of a thick stainless steel housing, a rotating bezel with a dive timing insert, and a black tritium dial with large, luminous hour plots, a date window at 3 o’clock, an inner 24-hour dial, and a large, luminous ‘sword’ handset. Powered by an automatic Swiss-made movement, it comes paired to an awesome brown calfskin leather strap with contrasting top stitching and a stainless steel pin buckle.
Ernest Borel Diver ($3,495)
Ernest Borel Diver - IN THE SHOP
Love the idea of a vintage Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe — but not so much the price? Try this diver from Ernest Borel, instead: Measuring a Goldilocks-perfect 39mm in diameter, it features a fully graduated dive bezel with a luminous pip, an acrylic crystal, a prominent crown without crown guards, and a screw-down caseback. Its black dial with luminous tritium indices, a date window at 6 o'clock, and luminous ‘sword’ hands is a picture of legibility and simplicity, while a Swiss-made automatic movement provides faithful timekeeping duties. Paired to a black rubber rallye-style strap, this puppy is ready for adventures in southern France — or anywhere else that strikes your fancy, for that matter!
Heuer Bundeswehr Flyback Chronograph ($4,950)
Heuer Bundeswehr Flyback Chronograph - IN THE SHOP
Between five and 10 years ago, a military-spec chronograph from an esteemed maker such as Heuer would’ve been unthinkable at a price under $5,000. These days, however, with the market focused on time-only dress watches in precious metals, the vintage chronograph market is ripe for the picking. This Ref. 1550 SG, for example, is an incredible find for just $4,950: Oversized at 42mm and featuring a hand-wound Valjoux flyback movement, it boasts a rotating timing bezel, a dual-register readout, and a highly legible design meant to be used by military pilots. And though this particular piece was never issued, it nonetheless has an incredible ‘cool’ factor that simply can’t be denied.
DOXA Sub 300 Carbon 'Whitepearl' ($3,750)
DOXA Sub 300 Carbon 'Whitepearl' - IN THE SHOP
For a more modern option under $5K, try this SUB 300 Carbon ‘Whitepearl’ from DOXA. Produced from striking-looking, lightweight carbon, it features DOXA’s signature ‘Whitepearl’ dial with black indices, hands, and typography that handsomely matches both the case and the black rubber strap on which it ships. A modern iteration of a watch dating back to the late 1960s, its cushion-shaped housing ensures 300m of water resistance from the factory, plus an ergonomic form factor that belies its larger 42.5mm diameter. For the serious divers among you, it’s an excellent option for vacation wear.
CYMA Tank ‘Jumbo’ ($2,250)
CYMA Tank 'Jumbo' - IN THE SHOP
Between the 1920s and the 1950s, many of the great Swiss and American watch companies focused their production not on round watches, but on rectangular, square, and other shaped timepieces. This CYMA dress watch is an excellent example: Shaped similarly to an elongated Cartier Tank model, it features a 26mm stainless steel case with stepped lugs, an acrylic crystal, an unsigned crown, and a silvered dial with an outer ‘railroad’ minute track, luminous ‘Arabic’ indices, a luminous ‘syringe’ handset, and a sub-seconds display above 6 o’clock. Powered by a hand-wound movement, it’s a handsome option for more formal occasions.
Movado Automatic Dress Watch ($2,750)
Movado Automatic Dress Watch - IN THE SHOP
We’ve said it before, and we’ll say it again: Vintage Movado provides some of the most compelling timepieces in the entire vintage watch universe. Just feast your eyes on this solid-gold beauty from the 1960s: Coming in at 33mm with a smooth bezel, beautifully faceted lugs, and a dimpled crown, it features a satin silver dial with applied gold indices, a crosshair sub-seconds display, and a matching ‘pencil’ handset. Thin, unobtrusive, and beautiful, it’s perfect for someone in search of a special-occasion dress watch that won’t break the bank.
Eberhard Automatic Dress Watch ($4,450)
Eberhard Automatic Dress Watch - IN THE SHOP
Much like Movado, Eberhard made an incredible assortment of compelling timepieces in the early- to mid-20th century, many of which are completely overlooked by collectors. This 36mm yellow gold dress watch has vintage Calatrava vibes for days, with a thick bezel, screw-down caseback, and signed crown that make it look not unlike a 1950s Patek. Its silvered dial, meanwhile, features a cool mix of applied gold and luminous ‘dot’ indices, an open minute track, a luminous ‘dauphine’ handset, and a magnified date window. Powered by an automatic movement, its timeless good looks will help it stand out in a crowded watch box.
