In 2018, the U.S. Navy began phasing out one of its oldest and most beloved bits of issued kit, the humble peacoat. Ditched in favor of lighter, more protective outerwear produced from synthetic materials, this hardy, utilitarian jacket sailed the high seas for well over a century on the shoulders of U.S. sailors — and much longer on those of British Royal Navy sailors and Dutch seamen. Today, it lives on in faithfully reproduced versions and remains a reliable favorite amongst those interested in both menswear as well as in military history.
The Origins of the Peacoat
U.S. Navy sailor wearing a peacoat - (Image by Avant)
The word pijakker — from “pij” for “coat of coarse cloth” and “jekker” for “jacket” —describes a heavy, double-breasted jacket worn by Dutch sailors in the 18th century. It would take the Royal Navy, however, to popularize its dense woolen silhouette by officially issuing it to sailors beginning in 1857. Constructed of heavy kersey or melton wool with a double-breasted closure, notch lapels, and broad collar, it was ideal for service aboard a windy ship’s deck, where sailors had to operate in all weather — including in dense fog, rain, and snow. The Americans saw the appeal of such a coat, adding it to their own uniform regulations in the late 19th century.
Navy Melton wool, which is used in classic peacoat construction - (Image by Gentleman's Gazette)
While subtle differences in cut, fit, and style differentiate peacoats produced before and during/after the Second World War, there are several key attributes that remain the same: The jacket is purposefully cut in a silhouette that allows a sailor to wear a warm undergarment beneath and to move about freely, but not made so wide as to become fouled in a ship’s rigging. The collar, meanwhile, can be turned up against the wind, while dual, horizontally cut hand-warmer pockets actually tighten the jacket against the body when in use, further preserving warmth. Finally, two rows of buttons unobtrusively secure the double-breasted enclosure.
Modern black plastic peacoat buttons with a "fouled anchor" motif. - (Image by Gentleman's Gazette)
While earlier, longer versions of the American peacoat feature a throat closure and additional, dual flap pockets near the hip, 1941 naval regulations omitted these and specified the use of 10 buttons. Furthermore, while pre-1930s versions feature plastic buttons depicting an anchor surrounded by 13 stars (for the 13 American colonies), later versions switched to the classic “fouled anchor” motif in plastic. (Officers, looking to differentiate themselves from enlisted men, would sometimes switch out these plastic buttons for brass ones featuring an eagle clutching an anchor in its talons — this design has, in turn, been adopted by modern manufacturers producing high-end takes on the peacoat.) Coats can have dual vents, a center vent, or no vent, depending upon the regulations to which they were produced. In the 1930s, the U.S. Navy switched from heavier 36-oz. construction to 32-oz. — a standard that it has maintained to the present day.
The Peacoat in Film and Fashion
Gregory Peck looking dashing in a neavy peacoat in the 1961 classic The Guns of Navarone - (Image by TCM)
Throughout the 20th century, the peacoat made frequent appearances in films depicting sailors and soldiers of both the U.S. Navy as well as the Royal Navy: Gregory Peck, playing a Long Range Desert Group officer and spy on assignment in the Aegean, wore one to great effect in The Guns of Navarone (1961); Steve McQueen and Richard Attenborough, playing U.S. sailors on board a river boat on the Yangtze in 1920s China, likewise cut dashing figures in their earlier, pre-War peacoats in The Sand Pebbles (1966); Jack Nicholson, portraying a U.S. sailor assigned to escort a fellow serviceman to prison, wore one in The Last Detail (1973). James Bond, being an ex-Royal Navy man, likewise donned a peacoat in the opening to Casino Royale (2006) as well as in Skyfall (2012). Non-naval types were also known to wear them: Al Pacino, depicting the hard-nosed title character in Serpico (1973) as well as Robert Redford in Three Days of the Condor (1975) made the peacoat look sharp — or were made sharp by their peacoats.
Robert Redford in Three Days of the Condor - (Image by Croode Marquee)
Off-set, actors such as Daniel Craig, Tom Cruise, and Brad Pitt have kept the peacoat in the sartorial conversation, while brands large and small continue to make both affordable as well as high-end takes of this iconic naval coat. From sub-$100 synthetic versions to fashionable, 100% wool (or even cashmere-blend) executions, the peacoat remains a warm, dependable, handsome menswear staple. Indeed, even if the U.S. Navy sees fit to retire it, there’s little reason to believe it’ll disappear from the streets any time soon.
Excellent Peacoats to Buy
Schott 740 Classic Melton Wool U.S. Navy Peacoat ($390)
Classic Melton Wool Navy Pea Coat - (Image by Schott NYC)
Founded in New York City in 1913, Schott was a U.S. military supplier during the Second World War. Its Union, New Jersey factory still cranks out excellent, heavy, 80/20 Melton wool/nylon blend peacoats including the 740: Available in five colors and two lengths, it boasts 32-oz. construction with fouled anchor buttons, dual hand-warmer pockets, dual inside chest pockets, and a nylon quilted lining.
Buzz Rickson’s Long Pea Coat BR14146 ($530)
Buzz Rickson's Peacoat Long Model Wool Lining BR14146 - (Image by Hinoya)
One can always count on the Japanese to outdo the Americans at their own sartorial game, and this beautifully reproduced peacoat from Buzz Rickson’s is no exception: Made of heavier 36-oz. Melton wool in navy, it’s produced in the longer lengths of WWI-era models and features dual flap pockets in addition to the two standard hand-warmer pockets. Its ten buttons, meanwhile, feature period-correct plastic anchor buttons with 13 stars.
Billy Reid Bond Peacoat ($798)
Billy Reid Bond Peacoat - (Image by Billy Reid)
Looking to cop 007’s look in Skyfall? Then what you need is the Billy Reid Bond Peacoat. Made in Italy from Melton wool with polyamide trim, this classic, navy blue style with bound seams features peak lapels, dual handwarmer pockets, dual flap pockets, and six genuine horn buttons. Constructed with archival stitching along the back sleeve, it’s finished with the brand’s signature heirloom ribbon stripe embossed on luxe calfskin leather under the collar.
