Myriad technological advances developed for destructive purposes during the Second World War quickly proliferated to significantly more peaceful effect throughout the civilian world of the 1950s. Among the more delightful was the Self-Contained Underwater Breathing Apparatus, known by its more succinct acronym of “SCUBA.” Using this newfangled device, a person could successfully remain underwater for close to an hour, interacting with wildlife, viewing submerged archaeology, and becoming lost in the beauty of the aquatic world. Among the pieces of kit necessary for this recreational activity, however, was one crucial instrument that didn’t yet exist in commercial form: Namely, a dedicated diver’s watch.
In order to cater to a burgeoning civilian market, Rolex debuted its Submariner in 1953. In typical Rolex fashion, it melded several distinct technologies in a singular, highly utilitarian form factor: Made water resistant by its screw-down crown and caseback; given a rotating bezel to measure elapsed time; fitted with an automatic movement to prevent wear and tear to the crown assembly; and kitted out with a luminous dial for visibility at depth, the Submariner was a triumph, and would go on to become perhaps the most recognizable watch model in the world. In a word, it was the ultimate “tool” watch.
Tudor Ref. 7923's screw-down crown
A year after Rolex debuted the Ref. 6204, sister company Tudor debuted its Ref. 7922. Effectively a Rolex Submariner equipped with a more affordable ETA-based movement, it provided access to the Submariner universe at a more approachable price point. Not a year later, however, Tudor debuted a sequel that, for all intents and purposes, seemed like a technological backstep: The Ref. 7923 was equipped not with an automatic movement, but with a modified version of the hand-wound ETA cal. 1182. In order to wind such a watch, one must unscrew the screw-down crown and then re-screw it, leading to wear and tear on the gasket. For this reason, the great majority of dive watches leading up to the Quartz Crisis featured automatic rather than hand-wound movements, making this hand-wound version a rare anomaly.
Tudor Submariner Ref. 7923 - IN THE SHOP
Housed in a 37mm stainless steel case with an acrylic crystal and a unidirectional bezel with a black aluminum dive insert, the Ref. 7923 features a Rolex-signed “Brevet” crown. The dial, however, is where most of the action is: Produced in two versions, it features galvanic ‘gilt’ printing that appears gold in color against the matte black background: An open minute track frames triangular, rectangular, and circular indices filled with luminous radium paint, while a luminous ‘pencil’ handset is finished with a long seconds hand featuring a ‘lollipop’ counterweight. “Tudor” and “Oyster” appear beneath the old Tudor ‘Rose’ logo, while above 6 o’clock, “Submariner” and “Shock-Resisting” are written. However, while certain executions feature no depth rating, other, more rare versions feature “100/330” in red text, making for an extremely attractive vintage aesthetic prized by Rolex/Tudor collectors.
Tudor Submariner ref. 7923 dial details
With its thin case, hand-wound movement, and red dial text, this second type of Ref. 7923 is an extremely rare bird, indeed, with just a handful of examples ever having made their way to auction. (One particularly famous example, auctioned on eBay in 2017 for $99,999, was for a time the most expensive Tudor watch to ever "go under the hammer." Such is the reference’s rarity that it was later listed by noted dealer HQ Milton for $350,000.) The particular example we have here is in excellent shape considering its seven-decade age: Though there is some degradation to the luminous radium material, it remains remarkably whole throughout the dial, with puffy plots and a bright outer minute track standing in stark contrast to the inky black of the dial. Fitted with thick spring bars, it’s also an absolute strap monster, transformable in an instant from a dressier tool watch to a serious piece of diver’s kit with the exchange of a leather strap for a NATO.
Supremely rare; highly refined; and undeniably handsome, the Tudor Submariner Ref. 7923 is a collector’s dream. Call or make an appointment to view this tremendous piece at our NYC showroom today!
