Welcome! In this series, we highlight some of the most compelling new watches that have entered the A:S inventory each month.
Every so often, a batch of watches arrives that feels less like a coherent category and more like the aftermath of a particularly interesting dinner party. A Roman luxury diver sits beside a Japanese lacquer-dial oddity; a gem-set bracelet watch shares space with a brutally modern German tourbillon. There are practical tool watches here, certainly — but also objects that seem designed primarily to provoke curiosity. From deeply functional dive instruments to unapologetically glamorous jewelry watches, this month’s selection celebrates the wonderfully broad spectrum of what watch collecting can be when taste takes precedence over trend-chasing.
Bulgari Diagono Scuba GMT ($3,750)
Bulgari Diagono Scuba GMT - IN THE SHOP
There was a period in the late 1990s and early 2000s when luxury sports watch makers still felt willing to take risks, and the Bulgari Diagono Scuba GMT is a perfect example: Housed in a 40mm stainless steel case with the brand’s signature engraved bezel and integrated bracelet, it approaches the luxury-sport formula from an unmistakably Roman perspective — bold, architectural, and just eccentric enough to stand apart from its Swiss contemporaries. The GMT functionality adds genuine utility, though the real charm lies in the design itself: the muscular case, luminous black dial, and seamless bracelet integration all combine to create something distinctly of its era. Equal parts travel watch and design object, it remains one of Bulgari’s most compelling pre-Octo creations.
Citizen Campanola “Kasanekyo” 20th Anniversary ($4,500)
Citizen Campanola "Kasanekyo" 20th Anniversary - IN THE SHOP
Campanola, a high-end division of Citizen, has always occupied a fascinating corner of modern watchmaking — one where Japanese decorative artistry takes precedence over conventional Swiss restraint. This “Kasanekyo” 20th Anniversary model embodies that philosophy beautifully, pairing a mechanical movement with a remarkable urushi lacquer dial crafted by artisan Tetsuo Gido. Layers of lacquer and mother-of-pearl create extraordinary visual depth beneath the crystal, giving the watch an almost celestial appearance that shifts constantly in changing light. What makes pieces like this so compelling is their refusal to behave like traditional luxury watches — the emphasis here is less on brute technical flexing and more on atmosphere, texture, and craft. Quietly obsessive and deeply beautiful, it’s the kind of watch that rewards prolonged attention.
Omega Secret Bracelet Watch by Gilbert Albert ($19,500)
Omega Secret Bracelet Watch by Gilbert Albert - IN THE SHOP
Is it a watch, or is it jewelry? With Gilbert Albert, the answer was always yes. During the mid-20th century, Omega collaborated with the celebrated Swiss designer on a series of wildly unconventional creations that blurred the line between sculpture and timekeeping, rejecting traditional symmetry in favor of organic forms inspired by nature. This secret bracelet watch captures that spirit perfectly, concealing a diminutive mechanical movement within an elegant gold bracelet that feels more like wearable art than conventional horology. Practicality was never really the point here — after all, the very concept of a secret watch prioritizes glamour and surprise over legibility. Tiny mechanical marvels like this feel almost impossible today, relics from an era when major Swiss houses embraced genuinely avant-garde experimentation.
Gevril Tribeca “Paul Newman” Chronograph ($4,350)
Gevril Tribeca 'Paul Newman' Chronograph - IN THE SHOP
Few watches capture the exuberance of early-2000s collecting culture quite like the Gevril Tribeca. Clearly inspired by the famed Rolex Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman," the Tribeca never attempts subtlety, instead amplifying vintage chronograph design cues through oversized proportions and an unapologetically modern execution. "Exotic" typography, contrasting sub-registers, and screw-down pushers in the "Oyster" give the watch an unmistakably sporty presence, while its sheer confidence makes it strangely charming in retrospect. While many "homage" pieces are considered downright sacrilegious by collectors, the Tribeca is still looked upon with genuine warmth by many — indeed, there’s an earnest enthusiasm baked into the design that remains appealing today. Equal parts tribute, time capsule, and conversation piece, the Tribeca represents a very specific and very entertaining chapter in modern watch culture.
Citizen Promaster Aqualand ($350)
Citizen Promaster Aqualand - IN THE SHOP
Before dive computers became standard issue, watches like the Citizen Promaster Aqualand represented the cutting edge of underwater practicality. Best known for its integrated digital depth gauge, the Aqualand was designed as a genuine professional instrument rather than a lifestyle accessory, and its unapologetically functional appearance reflects that mission perfectly. The asymmetric case, prominent sensor housing, and highly legible dial all prioritize utility over elegance, resulting in a watch that looks exactly like what it is: purpose-built equipment. That honesty is precisely what makes the Aqualand so compelling today. There’s almost no nostalgia baked into its design language — only functionality, durability, and wonderfully awkward charm. A cult-favorite diver with serious underwater pedigree, it remains one of the great tool watches of its era.
Tissot Squelette ($1,600)
Tissot Squelette - IN THE SHOP
Skeletonized watches often risk becoming overly theatrical, but the Tissot Squelette succeeds by leaning into restraint rather than excess. Instead of overwhelming the wearer with elaborate architecture or excessive decoration, it allows the mechanics themselves to become the focal point, revealing bridges, gears, and escapement components in a way that feels balanced rather than chaotic. The result is a watch with genuine visual intrigue that still retains a surprising degree of everyday wearability. There’s also something refreshingly democratic about pieces like this: skeletonization has historically been associated with high horology and intimidating price tags, yet watches such as the Squelette introduced that visual language to a much broader audience. Charming, mechanically expressive, and pleasantly straightforward, it delivers the pleasures of visible watchmaking without unnecessary pretension.
Patek Philippe Twenty-4 ($26,950)
Patek Philippe Twenty-4 - IN THE SHOP
Introduced in 1999, the Patek Philippe Twenty~4 represented something surprisingly thoughtful for its era: a women’s luxury watch conceived as a complete design rather than simply a downsized men’s model with added diamonds. Its elongated rectangular case draws heavily from Art Deco proportions, while the seamlessly integrated bracelet gives the watch an elegant, jewelry-adjacent identity that still feels remarkably contemporary today. What’s especially interesting in retrospect is how confidently the Twenty~4 anticipated modern tastes for smaller, refined luxury watches capable of moving effortlessly between formal and casual settings. There’s polish here, certainly, but also practicality — a watch designed for regular wear rather than occasional ceremony. Understated, sophisticated, and unmistakably Patek Philippe, it remains one of the more quietly influential luxury designs of its generation.
Piaget Polo Two-Tone Diamonds ($58,950)
Piaget Polo Two-Tone Diamonds - IN THE SHOP
The original Piaget Polo remains one of the purest expressions of late 20th-century luxury excess, and this two-tone diamond-set example leans fully into that identity. Introduced during the height of the integrated-bracelet craze, the Polo distilled Piaget’s jewelry-first philosophy into a sports-luxury watch whose gadroon-pattern bracelet flows seamlessly into the case with remarkable fluidity. In two-tone form, complete with diamond accents, the effect becomes unapologetically glamorous — less stealth wealth than overt sophistication. Yet beneath the extravagance lies genuinely disciplined design. Piaget understood proportion better than almost anyone, and the Polo’s slim profile and elegant integration still feel refined decades later. It’s easy to dismiss watches like this as relics of excess, but their appeal becomes increasingly obvious the longer one spends around them.
A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Tourbillon ($195,000)
A.Lange & Söhne 1815 Tourbillon - IN THE SHOP
Some watches impress through spectacle; others impress because every detail feels inevitable. The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Tourbillon belongs firmly in the latter category, pairing the brand’s classically inspired design language with one of horology’s most technically demanding complications. Railroad minute tracks, Arabic numerals, and restrained proportions keep the watch visually grounded, while the tourbillon itself is integrated with remarkable subtlety rather than theatrical excess. As with the finest Lange creations, however, the real magic lies in the movement finishing: German silver plates, hand-engraved components, black polishing, and razor-sharp interior angles all reveal an almost obsessive commitment to craft. Despite its complexity, the watch never feels showy. Deeply elegant and mechanically serious, it represents modern haute horlogerie at its most disciplined.
Breguet Tradition ($19,950)
Breguet Tradition - IN THE SHOP
If most watches hide their mechanics beneath the dial, the Breguet Tradition does precisely the opposite. Inspired by souscription watches created by Abraham-Louis Breguet in the 18th century, the Tradition exposes its movement architecture directly on the dial side, transforming gears, bridges, and barrels into the watch’s defining visual elements. The result is striking, though surprisingly coherent — less skeletonization for spectacle’s sake and more an exploration of movement design as aesthetic language. What makes the Tradition especially compelling is the way it bridges centuries of watchmaking sensibilities. The off-center guilloché dial remains unmistakably classical Breguet, while the exposed mechanics feel almost industrial in their presentation. Few watches manage to look simultaneously ancient and futuristic, yet the Tradition accomplishes this with remarkable confidence.
