The Patek Philippe Nautilus is one of the most talked about watches in the brand’s catalog. But there’s much more to the collection than the 5711. Today we are taking a closer look at the full diversity of models Patek has made since the 1976 launch of the Nautilus family from mens to womens. Let’s get into it.
Mens Models
First up is a classic example of the value proposition available in some of the Nautilus models we have to offer. This is a Reference 3800 in white gold. Trading for less than the time only steel 5711, this 3800/1G has a beautiful midsized 37mm case, the same underlying design language as its larger siblings, and a compelling slender case profile that makes the piece wear brilliantly.
Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 3800-1G - IN THE SHOP
Powered by the automatic winding 335 SC, the 3800 in white gold presents like a stainless model with its white metal case, but it has far more solidity on the wrist, with substantially more density relative to its size. If you want the reassuring substance of a precious metal timepiece, this may be a great option for you. Patek has also altered the dial on this model, packing a Roman numeral dial display with a date window, unlike the more traditional bathtub index iteration. Plus, the relative rarity of this model next to the modern production models further reinforces the value proposition this piece affords. You get so much for your money with this classic model from the 1990s.
Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 3800/1J - IN THE SHOP
Moving along, our next reference is the same 3800 base but executed in yellow gold. A louder alternative to the 3800/1G, this model comes with the more traditional dial display set within its yellow gold case, and this time with a striking black date! Whereas the 1G is the under the radar model, the 1J is the louder, more affordable alternative to modern offerings that packs the same design ethos into a super comfortable case proportion.
Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5712/1A - IN THE SHOP
This next example moves back to the modern collections for an alternative to the 5711 that should be more popular than it is. The 5712 packs a moonphase, subsidiary seconds, date, and power reserve into the classic 5711 design language. Considering the model trades for roughly the same pricepoint, you get additional complications over the 5711, and things really start to stand out when you flip the watch over.
Ticking within the 5712 is the caliber 240 micro-rotor movement, one of Patek’s most famous movements. Compared to the standard central winding 5711 movement, 240 showcases much more extensive finishing and higher performance statistics. For the money, the 5712 is easily one of the best value contemporary Nautilus references. The 5712 has a unique whimsical quality to it— asymmetrical and yet balanced in an almost Lange 1 esque way. It just works really well on the wrist. Give it a try and we’re sure you’ll agree!
Patek Philippe Ref. 5980/1A - IN THE SHOP
If you’re searching for a chronograph sports watch, the 5980 may be just the piece for you. Sitting a bit prouder on the wrist, the 5980 is a bold piece, but for those with the wrist for a statement sports model, the 5980 is a great option. Plus, the 5980 is no standard chronograph— it has a flyback function!
This beautiful blue fume dial is the variant to go for, with a fade from black to a light blue at the center. This is the coloring of the other major Nautilus models, but here it adds just a bit of elegance to the sporty chops of this model. Snag this 2007 gem before someone else does!
Patek Philippe Ref. 3900 - IN THE SHOP
The Patek Ref. 3900 comes in a more compact 32mm case size but otherwise preserves the underlying design language of the Nautilus collection as a whole. Inside ticks a quartz movement as opposed to the automatics we’ve covered so far. The result is a super thin case profile that wears compactly on the wrist. If you like quartz pieces and want the same Nautilus in a more compact sizing convention, this is the piece to look to. There’s no excess diamond settings, do superfluous decoration, nothing to dress this model up. It’s just the Nautilus done right and smaller.
Patek 3800 Series Ladies Pieces
Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 3800/2 - IN THE SHOP
We previously highlighted the 3800 in two different iterations for men. The great thing about the size is that its midsize presence works for both men and women, and we have a variety of ladies pieces as well. First is the 3800/2 with a diamond bezel and champagne diamond set dial. This model is distinguished in its settings, but also its contrasting black date window at 3. The diamonds on this example sit on the outer facet of the bezel, whereas Reference 3800/003J has larger diamonds applied to the main flat of the bezel. This results in a very different look. Consider both before making a decision!
Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 3800/5J - IN THE SHOP
If that’s just not enough diamonds for you, think about the 3900/5J-001 and 3800/5J. These feature a fully set bezel and set middle links running straight down the bracelet. These references are extremely rare and underappreciated— likely because you have to be willing to work with a lot of diamonds, but for those that like the aesthetic, this provides a great way to simultaneously enjoy the jewelry and high horology ends of the market.
Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 4700/158 - IN THE SHOP
If these special 3900 and 3800 references just aren’t diamond studded enough, you’re in luck because we have one more level to the diamond setting hierarchy: that’s the Reference 4700/158. This model features a fully diamond set piece on every metal surface that’s available for settings. Patek didn’t hold anything back here– love it or hate it.
Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 7011/1G-011 - IN THE SHOP
Our next pick is a white gold ladies model on the modern end of the Nautilus evolution. The Ref. 7011/1G-011 has a slightly different bracelet design with an interesting center link extending straight as a full link into the case unlike other Nautiluses. The dial has oversized indexes and a beefy handset that reinforces the sportiness of the design, but coupled with the petite case proportions, makes for a really interesting effect. Another noteworthy point on this piece is that it has a butterfly clasp rather than the typical folding blade clasp. For those looking for a very modern look for the Nautilus, this piece is a soft departure from the typical Nautilus design language in a refreshing way.
Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 4700/54P - IN THE SHOP
Along the same lines of an alternative design Nautilus with some of its own quirks is the reference 4700. An interesting combination of full platinum construction and a quartz movement within, the 4700/54P features a similar squared link bracelet construction. Measuring a quaint 27mm and having squared-off ears on the extremes of the case to produce a very different aesthetic, this watch stands on its own as a very unique Nautilus, and one that you aren’t likely to see out and about like some of the modern examples.
Conclusion
The Patek Philippe Nautilus is one of the most talked about watches on the market, but it’s far bigger than the 5711. Our selection of Nautilus pieces showcases the diversity of offerings available across the industry. Diamond set models, quartz, automatic, yellow gold, stainless steel, platinum and more. There are dozens of references, and even if the modern pieces are for you, considering these smaller lesser-talked about references may open your eyes to options you didn’t know existed. There’s a quiet confidence around wearing a 3800. It’s small but it’s assertive, and we’re all here for it.
