Stepped bezels; restrained yet elegant typeface; remnants of Art Deco styling; snailed timing scales — all these and more are indicative of 1940s horology. One of the most elegant eras in the history of watch design, this period is often overlooked by collectors for several reasons: one is the preference for modern automatic movements, which weren’t yet in vogue. Another is the size of many watches from the period, which were historically under 36mm. However, with the swing of the stylistic pendulum back to a preference for smaller case diameters — not to mention the continued emphasis on vintage reissues — a love for 1940s watchmaking is once again being rekindled amongst collectors.
What follows is just a small assortment of some 1940s favorites currently on offer at Analog:Shift. From incredible chronographs to simple gold dress watches — and even the occasional pocket watch and clock — we keep a wide assortment of compelling timepieces on offer in our New York City headquarters. Check out some of the incredible watches below, and be sure to reach out to us if there’s something specific you’re looking to source.
Movado M95 U.S.A.A.F. Chronograph ($16,500)
Movado M95 U.S.A.A.F. Chronograph - IN THE SHOP
Sourcing a clean, early Movado M95 chronograph — complete with outer tachymeter scale, applied ‘Breguet’ numerals, and ‘kriss’ chronograph hands — is difficult enough. But finding one with military provenance? The phrase “needle in a haystack” comes to mind. This one, measuring 33mm in stainless steel, is inscribed to a “Harvey W. Perry” on the caseback, along with the abbreviation “U.S.A.A.F.” The U.S. Army Air Force became the Air Force only in 1947, meaning that this gentlemen either served during the Second World War, or immediately afterwards. (Or both.) Complete with an elegant knurled crown, dual ‘doorstop’ pushers, and a blue calfskin strap, this rare chronograph checks nearly every horological box.
Longines 'Salmon' Pointer Date ($14,500)
Longines 'Salmon' Pointer Date - IN THE SHOP
While there’s a relative abundance of 20th-century Longines floating around the ether, something like a Reference 5412 is an entirely different beast. Dating to the late 1940s, it packs a pointer date complication and a gorgeous salmon dial into a modern 36mm stainless steel case. With its stepped bezel, unobtrusive crown, acrylic crystal, sub-seconds display, and luminous radium ‘Arabic’ indices, it reads like a watch out of 1940s central casting — and we mean that as a compliment! Inside beats the hand-wound Longines Calibre 27.0 movement with 17 jewels, while affixed to the watch is a brown calf leather strap with a stainless steel pin buckle. Rare and beautifully preserved, this 5412 isn’t a timepiece one comes across every day…or every decade, for that matter.
Philippe Watch Anti-Magnetic Chronograph 'Spillman' ($6,950)
Philippe Watch Anti-Magnetic Chronograph 'Spillman' - IN THE SHOP
Though the name on the dial — “Philippe Watch” — may not be familiar (and shouldn’t be confused with Patek Philippe), the qualities that make this a standout example of innovative 1940s watchmaking shouldn’t be ignored: There’s the oversized 38mm stainless steel case from Spillman with thick lugs, inverted 'tower' pushers, a smooth bezel, and an acrylic crystal. Then there’s the handsome, well preserved silver dial with multiple ‘snailed’ timing scales; stylized ‘Arabic’ indices with radium lume; luminous blued steel ‘pencil’ hands; and dual chronograph registers. Powered by the classic Valjoux cal. 22 hand-wound movement, it comes paired to a Analog:Shift Montone leather strap with matching a stainless steel pin buckle and is ready for modern adventures.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Triple Date ($11,650)
Jaeger-Lecoultre Triple Date - IN THE SHOP
It’s hard to believe that Jaeger-LeCoultre was able to produce such splendid pieces of fine watchmaking in the midst of the Second World War — but indeed, such is the case! This Reference 2172, housed in a 36mm yellow gold case with ‘teardrop’ lugs, a flat winding crown, and a smooth bezel, it fitted with an elegant champagne dial featuring applied diamond-shaped indices, an outer date track with a red-tipped pointer date hand, dual day and month registers, and a set of handsome ‘dauphine’ hands. In terrific condition, it’s powered by the hand-wound Jager-LeCoultre cal. P484 with 15 jewels. As an added bonus, it ships with a copy of Jaeger-LeCoultre: The Ultimate Guide for the Collector by Zaf Basha — required reading for fans of La Grande Maison.
Longines 'Art Deco' Tank ($1,995)
Longines 'Art Deco' Tank - IN THE SHOP
For someone in search of a simple dress watch with loads of character, this Tank-style Longines is just the ticket. Aesthetically reminiscent of a Patek Philippe Ref. 1450 ‘Top Hat,’ it features a slim 29mm yellow gold case with hooded claw-like lugs; an acrylic crystal; and a stepped bezel. Complementing this innovative case architecture is a silver dial with a mix of applied ‘wedge’ and ‘Arabic’ indices, a sub-seconds display at 6 o’clock, and a set of gold ‘dauphine’ hands, while a hand-wound, 17-jewel Longines cal. 9L acts as a reliable power plant. Paired to a brown saddle leather strap with gold-tone pin buckle, this lovely Longines is a relatively affordable entry into the world of rarefied precious-metal dress watches. Who could pass up such a compelling object?
Gruen Art Deco Pocket Watch ($1,450)
Gruen Art Deco Pocket Watch - IN THE SHOP
Perhaps your tastes run truly classic — in that case, why not consider this incredible Art Deco-style pocket watch from American brand Gruen? Measuring 46mm in diameter, it features all the hallmarks of early 20th-century styling: a stepped bezel, an elegant bow, and a beautiful silver dial. However, this is no ordinary pocket watch. The bi-color ‘tuxedo’ design — with an outer black hour track with white ‘Arabic’ indices, a ‘railroad’ minute track, an inner silver section with a handsome overlaid sub-seconds display, and a set of luminous ‘leaf’ hands — is a thing of stunning creativity, while a blank caseback is perfect for engraving. Powered by a hand-wound movement, it’s a piece of Americana from one of the golden eras of industrial design. And at this price, it’s nearly impossible to pass up.
Marvin Dress Watch Bracelet ($6,770)
Marvin Dress Watch Bracelet - IN THE SHOP
This stunning bracelet watch from Swiss brand Marvin is positively outrageous in its creativity and design. Consisting of scalar yellow gold links, it features a hidden watch dial protected by a hinged cover with an acrylic crystal, a smooth bezel, and a silver dial boasting stylized Art Deco ‘Arabic’ indices, an outer open minute track, and a thin gold ‘pencil’ handset. Closed via a hidden clasp and powered by a hand-wound movement, this spectacular piece is an ideal black-tie companion, and would perfectly complement a little black dress. It’s also a lovely reminder that everything in fashion and horology is cyclical: take a look at the forms of Cartier, Piaget, and Bulgari’s beautiful bracelet watches that are so popular today, and you immediately recognize the lineage of 1940s design such as that of this Marvin timepiece.
