What’s this business with double-signed watches, and why is everyone crazy about them?
During the late-19th and for much of the 20th century, prominent local jewelers were the sole point of contact for a buyer looking to purchase a watch from a major Swiss maison. In consideration of their importance, firms such as Patek Philippe and Rolex would allow the retailer to add its signature to certain watch dials, marking these timepieces as having been sold at their store — and effectively turning them into miniature advertisements. While this practice has largely subsided today, it's still employed by some of the most notable watchmakers and jewelers, and vintage examples of double-signed watches are in high demand.
The Famous Tiffany & Co. Signature:
No double-stamped dial carries more weight than those signed by Tiffany & Co, America's foremost jeweler. Driven by incredible auction results on doubled- stamped models such as the Nautilus, almost any Patek with a Tiffany signature has appreciated rapidly.
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Chronograph 'Tiffany & Co' Ref. 5960 - SHOP HERE
Our first Tiffany piece is an exceptional Ref. 5960 in white gold. Flaunting a blue dial with red accents within the chronograph functions, this 5960 pairs a flyback chronograph with an annual calendar complication displayed through apertures at 12, and comes paired to a blue alligator strap with matching red stitching. The Tiffany & Co. stamp is tucked just below Patek’s logo at 12 o’clock, giving it the type of subtle addition that the average onlooker never would pick up on — but to the wearer, means everything.
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5196J - SHOP HERE
We also have two dress watches flaunting the Tiffany stamp: First up is a Ref. 5196J, the contemporary extension of the classic Calatrava design language. Measuring 37mm in yellow gold, it wears a bit larger due to its broad lug structure. Our second Tiffany-signed Calatrava dates to the 1960s: a Ref. 2588, it features a more compact 33mm case. Few midcentury Calatravas with such stamps remain in excellent condition. Arguably, there’s something charming about the Tiffany-signed dials that predate the craze surrounding them today!
Patek Philippe Ref. 2588 - SHOP HERE
Patek, however, wasn’t the only brand to partner with Tiffany & Co.
Our next piece comes from Universal Genève — and is actually secretly "triple-signed." Dating to the 1970s and housed in a yellow gold case with a champagne dial, it's the byproduct of a collaboration between Universal Genève and Accutron. Fitted with the latter's unique electronic movement, it features an applied Accutron logo at 12 o'clock, below which lies the traditional U.G. logo, while below this is the Tiffany & Co. stamp. for someone deeply versed in the history of watch movement development, it's a perfect — and incredibly rare — corner of collectible horology.
Universal Gèneve Unisonic 'Tiffany & Co.' - SHOP HERE
J.W. Benson and Universal Genève
Universal Genève Cioccolatone 'J.W. Benson' - SHOP HERE
Once a famous clock- and watchmaker from London, J.W. Benson operated between 1849 and 1973. Here we see the product of Universal Genève’s retail alliance with Benson: a unique swollen and bubbled case profile that’s pinched at the middle and grows to the extremes captures the 1950s aesthetics to a "T." Manually wound and flaunting beautiful detailing on the dial — including a guilloché-patterned silver engraving and appliqué primary indices — it's equal parts eccentric and serious. A splendid addition to any collection of vintage timepieces, it fills a similar niche to that of the shaped Patek Philippe references designed by Gilbert Albert. The J.W Benson signature double-signature only contributes further to its "cool" factor.
L.L. Bean and Hamilton
Hamilton 'L.L. Bean' Chronograph - SHOP HERE
Now here's a fun partnership: the union of American-founded brand Hamilton, one of the great accessible watchmakers, and fellow U.S. company L.L. Bean, an icon of the outdoor outfitter market. Priced well under $5,000 and featuring a practical chronograph, this 39mm Reference 9446 dates to the 1980s. The movement within is based on a Valjoux caliber — robust, reliable, and famous for having powered some of the most prominent watches in the industry, including those from Patek Philippe. A unique marriage of American and Swiss designs, it's an ideal outdoorsman's watch — and a darn good-looking one, to boot!
Movado Double-Signed Watches
Movado Tempo-Matic 'Türler' Signed - SHOP HERE
Movado, which relied on its significant retailer network to help grow the brand in the mid-20th century, offers plenty of compelling double-signed watches to choose from. Here, we have two different manifestations of these partnerships: the first features one of the most famous retailers in Europe, Türler. Founded in 1883, Türler quickly expanded to build a network of stores all over the continent, supplying watches for thousands of customers — including Winston Churchill. This Movado bears the Türler signature at 6 o'clock, just above the Tempo-Matic signature.
Movado M95 Chronograph 'Mappin & Webb' - SHOP HERE
Our second piece is a M95 chronograph — which is code for “one of the best values in vintage watches." M95 movements were introduced in mid-20th century and remain some of the most beloved by collectors. With a unique inverted pusher layout, the start and stop functions are driven by the 4 o’clock pusher, while the reset pusher is positioned at 2 o'clock. This particular yellow-gold example is signed by Mappin & Webb, a British retailer founded in Sheffield in 1775 and notable for selling trench watches during the First World War. To find a double-signed example of a prominent model such as an M95 — in precious metal, no less — is a rare treat, indeed.
