Of the myriad intrepid personalities that populated the British army during the Second World War, two stand out from the North African campaign for their opposite — yet often wildly effective — approaches to warfare. David Stirling, a daring young Scots Guards-officer-turned-commando, used the Long Range Desert Group’s expert navigators and drivers to ferry his Special Air Service deep into the desert, attacking German and Italian positions well behind enemy lines when they least expected it. Field Marshall Bernard Law Montgomery, on the other hand, who commanded the victorious British Eighth Army at the Second Battle of El Alamein, was a cautious, methodical tactician who rarely overplayed his hand and employed overwhelming force to subdue his enemies.
David Stirling, founder of the S.A.S, wearing a duffel coat in North Africa - (Image by BoudeWijnHuijgens)
Despite their often opposite approaches to warfare, however, both knew how to rock a great duffel coat.
Sailors in duffel coats - (Image by Groverall)
What, pray tell, is a duffel coat, you may ask? You would be forgiven for being unable to conjure the image of one in your mind’s eye — not nearly as ubiquitous a garment as the trench coat, the bomber jacket, or even the peacoat, the duffel is often relegated to the fringes of menswear blogs and the bowels of militaria-themed Reddit threads, languishing in relative obscurity as the M-65 basks in the glory of cosplaying, would-be infantrymen. And yet this fascinating garment, complete with rope-and-toggle closures, heavy woolen fabric, and — perhaps most notably — a built-in bucket hood, is not only wildly utilitarian and unpretentious, but has a compelling aesthetic all its own that separates it from spades of other like garments with more overt military overtones.
Perhaps the duffel coat warrants a brief description, wouldn’t you say? In effect, we’re talking about a knee-length, double-weave woolen coat with three or four wooden (or horn) toggle fastenings; a buttonable neck strap; a bucket hood or “pancake” hood; two large outer patch (or flap) pockets; and — on civilian versions — a tartan lining. Though there’s some debate as to the etymological origins of the “duffle” (or “duffel”) name, it’s speculated that this moniker derives from the Belgian town of Duffel, from whence a thick form of woolen cloth originates.
By the last decade of the 19th century, coats made of a heavy-duty, 34 oz. double-faced woolen cloth — whose water-resistant lanolin content was ideal for use at sea — were being used by the Royal Navy; by the Second World War, this coat had evolved into the aforementioned style, where its loose-fitting shape allowed servicemen of all sizes to pick it up, wear it while on deck, and return it to its place for the next sailor to use.
Another English sailor wearing a duffel coat in its original earthy color - (Image by Duffel Coat Shop)
Royal Navy-issue duffel coats were first produced in an earthy dun color. By the early 1900s, however, brown versions came into being, and by the 1930s, the first navy executions were in service. In addition to the front patch pockets and throat strap, the signature toggle closures are probably its most recognizable feature. Originally made using hemp rope and wooden toggles, these were said to be easier to operate with gloves than conventional buttons — though their origins may also be explained by the wide availability of these common materials in European countries that developed similar garments. (The Polish frock coat, for example, used a similar closure system in the mid-19th century.)
How the coat came to be in the possession of a humble (though admittedly well connected) subaltern of the British army in the form of Lieutenant David Stirling is anyone’s guess, though photographs from the early days of the Special Air Service clearly depict him snug as a bug in a rug next to an assemblage of his well armed raiders deep in the desert. (The desert — any desert — is a surprisingly cold place at night and in the early morning.) After the War, the Royal Navy had little further use for the mountains of surplus clothing that had accumulated in government warehouses, and thousands of duffel coats found their way into civilian hands. It was here that the garment's second life truly began.
The Gloverall factory in Northamptonshire - (Image by Gloverall)
One man in particular deserves much of the credit for the proliferation of the civilian duffel coat: Harold Morris, proprietor of the London outfitter Gloves & Overall Company, acquired enormous stocks of surplus Royal Navy duffel coats after the War and quickly recognized that there was a market beyond military surplus enthusiasts. As government stocks dwindled, his company began manufacturing new versions based closely on the naval originals under the now-famous Gloverall name — a contraction of “gloves” and “overall.” Their coats retained virtually all of the military pattern's defining characteristics: the generous hood, rope-and-toggle closures, oversized patch pockets, and rugged woolen cloth. What had begun as naval workwear had quietly become civilian outerwear — and the timing could hardly have been better
Britain in the late 1940s and 1950s was rebuilding itself, and practicality remained the order of the day. The duffel coat offered warmth, durability, and a distinctly democratic charm — indeed, was as likely to be worn by a university student bicycling through Cambridge as by a dockworker heading to the morning shift. Before long it became a fixture on university campuses throughout Britain, eventually crossing the Channel and finding favor among French students as well as intellectuals.
The lads of Oasis on the cover of their album Roll With It wearing the Morris duffel coat - (Image by Groverall)
Celebrity ambassadors helped cement its place in popular culture: Field Marshal Montgomery had already become closely associated with the garment during the War, often appearing in photographs wearing a well-worn duffel complete with his trademark beret. In the decades that followed, the coat appeared on everyone from philosophers and professors to actors and musicians. Few garments have managed to project such an unusual combination of seriousness, modesty, and quiet confidence.
Its design also proved remarkably resistant to changing fashions. While countless military garments were progressively slimmed, shortened, embellished, or otherwise reimagined by the fashion industry, the duffel coat remained stubbornly itself. A modern example from Gloverall or one of its competitors would look immediately familiar to a Royal Navy sailor from eighty years ago. The silhouette is still generous; the toggles remain proudly oversized; the hood is still large enough to accommodate a naval cap — or, just as importantly, to keep a cold North Atlantic rain from running down the back of one's neck.
There is, of course, a reason for this remarkable consistency: the duffel coat was never designed to look martial or intimidating. Unlike the trench coat, whose epaulettes, storm flaps, and belt speak openly of military origins — or the bomber jacket, whose cropped waist evokes fighter pilots and speed — the duffel coat communicates something altogether different. It is utilitarian without appearing aggressive; military without being militaristic. One wears a duffel not to look like a soldier, but to be someone prepared for bad weather — a considerably less serious prospect.
Perhaps that explains why the garment has quietly endured while so many other military classics have drifted in and out of fashion. Whether wrapped around a Royal Navy sailor on the deck of a destroyer, David Stirling planning a raid beneath the stars of the Libyan Desert, Montgomery inspecting his troops before El Alamein, or a university student hurrying to lectures on a damp October morning, the duffel coat has always excelled at the same simple task: keeping its wearer warm, dry, and ready for whatever lies ahead.
Excellent Modern Duffel Coats
BGSD Men’s Benjamin Wool Blend Classic Duffle Coat ($249)
BGSD Men's Benjamin Wool Blend Classic Duffle Coat - SHOP HERE
A blend of traditional duffel coat with something a bit more refined, this example from BGDS features traditional toggle closures, a wool-blend shell with insulated lining, a detachable hood, interior as well as exterior pockets, and even a zip closure. Available and blue and black, it’s a great affordable introduction to a garment with tremendous staying power.
Gloverall Men’s Morris Mid-Length Duffle Coat ($649)
Gloverall Men's Morris Mid-Lenght Duffle Coat - SHOP HERE
The real deal. Made in England from Italian wool with buffalo horn toggles, leather loop fastenings, and tartan trimming, this mid-length duffle descends directly from beloved post-War models. Available in seven colors and six sizes, it’s ideal for nearly any body type, and even features a fixed shoulder cape and lined sleeves for warmth.
The Real McCoy’s MJ21123 Mouton Duffle Coat Beige ($4,340)
The Real McCoy's MJ21123 Mouton Duffle Coat Beige - SHOP HERE
Is price no object? Then you might be interested in the MJ21123 Moutton Duffle Coat from Japanese brand The Real McCoy’s. Made of sheepskin, this is about as close as you can get to a 1930s original without actually tracking down the ghost of a dead SAS operative. Maybe don’t wear it into actual desert battle, however — it’s heavy as hell, and at $4,340, you might not want to get it dirty!
