Lady Analog: The Patek Philippe Twenty~4

By Stephen Watson | 09.03.26

Welcome to Lady Analog, a new series on Transmissions in which we examine the best in ladies’ watches. In this first installment, we take a deep dive into the Patek Philippe Twenty~4 collection.

Long before the modern luxury watch industry began earnestly courting female collectors, Patek Philippe already understood something fundamental: women were never an afterthought in watchmaking. In fact, one of the manufacture’s earliest milestones was created specifically for one. In 1868, Patek Philippe delivered an extraordinary wristwatch to Hungarian Countess Koscewicz — a rectangular gold watch with a white enamel dial, a baguette movement, and a black enamel cover set with rose-cut diamonds. More jewel than instrument, it now feels startlingly contemporary.

An early Patek Philippe wristwatch, made in 1868, and sold to Hungarian Countess Koscowicz in 1876. - (Image by Patent Plaques Blog)

That tension between jewelry and horology still defines much of Patek Philippe’s appeal for women today, nowhere more clearly than in the Twenty~4. Introduced in 1999 as the brand’s first collection designed exclusively for women, the Twenty~4 arrived at precisely the right moment: sleek, architectural, elegant, and practical enough to wear every day, 24 hours a day, giving the watch its name.

One of the first series of Patek Philippe ads for the steel Twenty-4 featuring Bridget Hall in 1999. - (Image by Collectabilty)

The original “manchette” models — with their curved rectangular cases and integrated bracelets — borrowed lightly from Art Deco design and late-’90s minimalism. They looked equally at home beside other feminine watch icons, worn with additional jewelry, or paired with a sharply tailored suit. More importantly, they never felt like watered-down men’s watches. The Twenty~4 had its own identity.

Part of the model’s enduring success comes from the fact that it understands how many women actually wear watches. Yes, the diamond-set bezels and polished bracelets give the Twenty~4 a jewelry-like presence, but there’s restraint beneath the glam. The quartz models became beloved because they were effortless with grab-and-go luxury with the authority of the Calatrava cross on the dial. Later, automatic references added mechanical credibility for collectors who wanted visible movements and traditional Patek watchmaking substance.

Patek Philippe Twenty-4 Ref.4908/11R-010 - IN THE SHOP

Today, the Twenty~4 is frequently cited as one of Patek Philippe’s best-selling collections, and its appeal cuts across generations. Some collectors gravitate toward the original cuff-style references in steel. Others prefer the softer, round automatic models introduced in recent years, especially with more colorful olive green, blue, or chocolate dials.

What unites them is the same thing that connected the Twenty~4 back to that 1868 Countess Koscewicz piece: the idea that a watch can be technically impressive without sacrificing elegance, emotion, or style. In the end, the Twenty~4 succeeds because it never asks women to choose between jewelry and horology. It offers both.

And judging by the current examples available on Analog:Shift — from early manchette references to modern automatic models — we can attest, collectors are still very much in love with the idea.