Long before Louis Vuitton became a serious force in contemporary watchmaking, before the Tambour, before La Fabrique du Temps, and before the revival of names like Daniel Roth, there was the Monterey II.
Louis Vuitton Monterey II - IN THE SHOP
Introduced in 1988, the Monterey II remains one of the most unusual watches ever to carry the Louis Vuitton name. Created in collaboration with IWC Schaffhausen and legendary Italian architect Gae Aulenti, the watch arrived at a time when luxury fashion brands were still feeling their way through watchmaking. Rather than producing a conventional dress watch, Vuitton delivered something genuinely experimental.
The Monterey II's design feels just as unconventional today as it did nearly four decades ago. Its ceramic case was ahead of its time, while the dial abandoned traditional layouts in favor of a layered graphic approach. ‘Arabic’ hour numerals occupy the center of the dial, a ‘railroad’-style minute track surrounds them, and oversized red date numerals circle the outer perimeter. Most memorable of all is the crown positioned at 12 o'clock, protruding from the top of the case and giving the watch its enduring nickname: ‘The Unicorn.’
Aulenti's influence extended beyond the dial. She eliminated traditional lugs entirely, opting instead for a strap that passes directly through the caseback. The result is a remarkably clean silhouette that feels more like industrial design than traditional watchmaking.
Today, the Monterey II occupies a fascinating corner of collecting culture. Produced in relatively small numbers and seldom seen in the wild, it has become a cult favorite among design-minded collectors. Recent renewed interest in the model has been fueled in part by Louis Vuitton's growing commitment to watchmaking and by sightings of the vintage watch on the fall/winter 2025 runway and the wrist of Jean Arnault, the executive leading the brand's horological ambitions.
Louis Vuitton Monterey, Automatic, 39mm, Yellow Gold - Image by Louis Vuitton
That enthusiasm culminated in the fall of 2025, when Louis Vuitton unexpectedly revived the Monterey for a new generation. Released in a limited edition of just 188 pieces, the modern interpretation featured a 39mm yellow-gold case and replaced the original quartz movement with a contemporary self-winding automatic caliber. The reissue preserved many of Gae Aulenti's defining design cues while introducing the model to collectors who may have never encountered the original ‘Unicorn’ in the wild.
For collectors looking to experience this unusual chapter of Louis Vuitton history firsthand, an original 1980s Monterey II is currently featured in Analog:Shift's First Look collection. The watch measures 36mm in ceramic and is powered by a quartz movement, paired with a white dial and a signed green Louis Vuitton leather strap with its original pin buckle. Categorized here as 'neo-vintage,' it remains remarkably well-preserved, with the ceramic case, crystal, and dial all presenting in fantastic condition, showing only minor wear to the caseback. At a time when ceramic sports watches have become commonplace, it's a reminder that Louis Vuitton was experimenting with the material decades before much of the industry caught on.
Viewed through a modern lens, the Monterey II feels less like a forgotten fashion watch and more like an early preview of the creative risk-taking that would eventually define Louis Vuitton's watchmaking journey. Some watches are ahead of their time. The Monterey II may still be waiting for the rest of the industry to catch up.
