Imagine running around the tennis court in a long-sleeved button-up shirt, a pair of flannel trousers, and a tie. Not terribly comfortable-sounding, eh? This was the sartorial reality in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Until one René Lacoste came around, that is.
Rene Lacoste wearing one of his signature Lacoste polo shirts in the late 1930s - (Image by DB4 Tennis)
Born in Paris in 1904, Lacoste enjoyed a wildly illustrious tennis career, securing seven Grand Slam titles and taking home a bronze medal at the 1924 Summer Olympics. In the 1920s, he designed a white, short-sleeved piqué cotton shirt with a buttoned placket, a flat collar, and a slightly longer shirt-tail back that he began wearing on the court in 1926. Partnering with French knitwear manufacturer André Gillier in 1933, the two began producing the shirt — prototype number L.12.12 — at scale, affixing a crocodile logo to the breast in reference to Lacoste’s nickname. With its breathable fabric, collar that could be turned up against the sun, short sleeves, and “tail” that prevented it from riding up from within one’s tennis shorts, the Lacoste polo quickly proliferated throughout the tennis club scene.
René Lacoste launched his first advertising campaign for his polo shirts in 1933. - (Image by Lacoste)
Another tennis player, Englishman Fred Perry, also helped this type of shirt gain traction. Following a career in which he secured eight Grand Slam titles and three back-to-back wins at Wimbledon in the 1930s, Perry joined forces with Australian footballer Tibby Wegner on a line of branded sportswear. Beginning with a simple sweatband, the two quickly found success by giving their products to famous athletes for use on the court, founding the Fred Perry brand in 1952. Producing their own version of the piqué polo tennis shirt, Fred Perry used the laurel wreath — symbol both of victory and of the uppercrust All England Club, with which Perry had a contentious relationship — as its logo. Worn by notable tennis players of the time such as Jaroslav Drobný and Neale Fraser, the shirt quickly took off.
Fred Perry polo shirts in the summer of 1979 - (Image by Fred Perry)
It was American designer Ralph Lauren, however, who would turn the garment — designed exclusively for the tennis court — into the “polo shirt.” Having grown enamored with the piqué cotton Lacoste, he set about producing his own, releasing it in 1972 with the image of a polo player sitting atop a horse. This shirt — and the polo player mascot, which had been used previously by Lauren on select garments but never as his exclusive logo — was widely successful. So much so, in fact, that the “tennis shirt” largely became known as the “polo shirt” despite the fact that it was never intended for use in that sport. Imitating the admittedly “WASPY” style of J. Press, Brooks Brothers, and other American makers of garments for the Ivy League set, Ralph Lauren set the polo shirt on a course for ubiquity.
Ralph Lauren introduced his Polo shirt in 1972 - (Image by Ralph Lauren)
Today, polo shirts are made from all manner of materials: While piqué cotton is used in the classic version, other executions are produced from polyester, terrycloth, linen, silk, and all manner of blends. While some feature the classic buttoned placket, others do not, opting for a shorter, button-less version. Certain versions likewise maintain the practical longer shirt-tail back of the original, while others opt for a more formal version with a ribbed hem and an equal length around the entire perimeter. Some also feature a breast pocket, while others do not. In each case, these garments are still referred to as “polo shirts,” speaking to the cultural significance of Lacoste’s original design and its place within the menswear canon.
Two polo shirts from the 007 pantheon: Sean Connery in Dr. No; Daniel Craig in Casino Royale - (Image by Classiq)
Some of Our Favorite Polo Shirts
For a range of polo shirts that run the gamut from classic piqué to more luxurious blends, check out the following options.
Lacoste L.12.12 Light Polo Shirt ($66-$110)
Lacoste L.12.12 Light Polo Shirt - SHOP HERE
A riff on the 1933 original, the modern L.12.12 comes in a range of bright and airy colors and features ultra-light 165 GSM piqué construction made from cotton and recycled polyester; a ribbed collar and sleeves; mother-of-pearl buttons; a sewn-on crocodile emblem; and a classic fit.
Polo Ralph Lauren Custom Slim Fit Stretch Mesh Polo Shirt ($110)
Polo Ralph Lauren Custom Slim Fit Stretch Mesh Polo Shirt - SHOP HERE
Ralph Lauren’s original 1972 polo shirt is available in numerous guises, but this particular take — made of 95% cotton and 5% elastane — features just the right amount of stretch. Fitting close to the bicep, it boasts a three-button placket, mother-of-pearl buttons, the Ralph Lauren “polo” logo, a vented hem, and ribbed armbands.
Orlebar Brown Tailored Fit Cotton Towelling Resort Polo Shirt ($195)
Orlebar Brown Tailored Fit Cotton Toweling Resort Polo Shirt - SHOP HERE
For a neat, heavier (yet distinctly summery) take on the polo shirt, try the Tailored Fit Cotton Towelling Resort Polo Shirt from English resortwear brand Orlebar Brown. Made of 100% organic cotton towelling from Portugal, it features a button-less placket, a one-piece collar, and a straight hem with side seam vents and an extended back hem.
The Armoury by Ascot Chang Cotton/Linen Short-Sleeve Spread Collar Polo ($275)
The Armoury by Ascot Chang Cotton/Linen Short-Sleeve Spread Collar Polo - SHOP HERE
Looking for a premium take on the polo? Try this cotton-linen version produced by Ascot Chang for Hong Kong’s The Armoury from Italian fabric. Featuring a spread collar, a two-button placket, a full collar band, gusseted sides at the hem, and mother-of-pearl buttons, it feels like a million bucks — and looks it, too.
