Since the creation of the first perpetual calendar in the late 18th century and the first wristwatch QP ("quantième perpétuel") by Patek Philippe in 1925, the perpetual calendar has been a mainstay of complicated watchmaking. Dozens of brands have made perpetual calendar wristwatches, comprising some of the most beautiful timepieces ever devised. Today, we are exploring three different approaches to the complication and discussing the details that make each unique, all while answering the question: Who makes the best perpetual calendar? Patek, Journe or Lange?
Patek Philippe Reference 3940
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Ref.3940R - IN THE SHOP
In 1985, Patek Philippe released one of its most important watches, the legendary Reference 3940. The first in the brand's lineage of-three register perpetual calendars (without apertures), this layout is today the gold standard across the industry. Measuring 36mm in diameter with a slender 8.5mm-thick case, the 3940 is perhaps the most wearable grand complication the brand ever made. The dial is highly legible, displaying the calendar indications in three subsidiary displays at 3, 6 and 9 o'clock and featuring faceted indices and dot markers. Adding a splash of color at 6 o’clock is the well-designed moonphase indication, which provides a nice contrast and added warmth to the design.
Patek Philippe caliber 240Q movement - (Image by Collectabiity)
The 3940 is powered by Patek’s famous 240Q movement. Utilizing a micro-rotor fashioned from 22K gold, the 3940 achieves a thin wrist presence. (The 240 is probably Patek’s best micro-rotor movement, and is still part of the maison's collection — indeed, it’s one of the longest-running movements in production.) The 3940 is arguably a perfect watch: Well proportioned, flaunting Patek’s watchmaking acumen, and complicated but not chunky, this timepiece got much right in 1985. In terms of classic watchmaking and everyday wearable complications, the 3940 might be Patek’s best option, and certainly is a candidate for the best perpetual calendar in the industry.
F.P. Journe Quantième Perpétuel
F.P. Journe Quantième Perpétuel - IN THE SHOP
Most brands follow some variation on the layout shown by Patek with the 3940. But while the three-register display is certainly the industry standard, it’s far from the only way of laying out a perpetual calendar. And while it's rare that a brand decides to completely redesign the perpetual, F.P. Journe took up the challenge: The Quantième Perpétual was designed as a response to the cluttered layout that characterized many of the other perpetuals of the time.
Launched in the mid-2010s, the Journe QP displayed the calendar indications in apertures rather than subdials — the idea being that it would delete any unnecessary information and clutter. The details of the execution are equally thoughtful. For example, since the wearer is likely to utilize the date more regularly than the month and day of the week, Journe made its six o’clock windows larger than the displays at 12 o’clock. The rest of the execution is incredibly sophisticated and classically Journe, with the exposed frames, solid gold base, and blued hands that have characterized his dials since the 1990s.
To top it all off, Journe built this piece within the Octa collection, meaning it packs an automatic-winding rotor for everyday convenience and an impressive 120-hour power reserve. This piece may not be quite as wearable as the slim 3940, but if you like a slightly more sporty dress watch, it comes in both 40 and 42mm configurations.
The Journe QP certainly is a bit more unique than a 3940, and it's also quite a bit rarer. Journe hasn’t made that many of them, and there are also quite a few different dial and metal configurations, meaning an even smaller number of any particular variety were made. That said, they're also about twice the price of an average 3940. Considering its unique aesthetics, beautifully finished movement, and top-notch pedigree, however, the Journe QP is well worth the investment.
A. Lange & Sohne Lange 1 Perpetual 345.033E
A.Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar Ref. 345.033E - IN THE SHOP
Last up is the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar Reference 345.033E. This model is one of the most complicated Lange 1 variations, second only to the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon. Like the Journe QP, the Lange 1 Perpetual boasts a simple perpetual calendar layout: The brand has masterfully tucked each of the calendar indications into the fabric of the Lange 1 DNA, displaying the month on the perimeter of the dial, the leap year indicator at 6 o’clock, and the day of the week in place of the typical Lange 1 power reserve at 9 o’clock. The moonphase is located within the subsidiary seconds dial at 7 o'clock, while the dial is completed with the outsized date that Lange is known for.
From a distance, it’s easy to recognize this is a Lange 1 — registering that it's a QP takes a closer look. It's also a big watch: Measuring 42mm wide in rose gold and over 12mm thick, it's more substantial than both the Journe and the Patek, though this is certainly a part of the Lange experience. The solidity of the watch and its undeniable substance is part and parcel of the Germanic aura the piece embodies.
The Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar is undoubtedly one of the most underrated Lange models, and its quality is in its simplicity and unarguable presence. Lange has done a better job with the Lange 1 than perhaps any other brand in building the collection’s aesthetic and recognition, working the complications into the design language in a way that complements the identity of the collection.
Conclusion
So which is the best perpetual calendar? Ultimately the right answer is of course subjective — each watch has its own attributes that make it an excellent fit for some but less ideal for others — but hopefully now you understand the unique interpretations that the perpetual calendar complication can embody. For those who prefer a more classical aesthetic and approach, the Patek Philippe Ref. 3940 is ideal. For someone tho likes a more modernist angle, the F.P Journe QP is the name of the game. And for the collector in search of a larger watch with more presence and Teutonic design sensibilities, the Lange 1 Perpetual is just the ticket. All three, however, are excellent choices that embody the beauty of this sophisticated and beautiful complication.
