Today we have 1 million dollars of watches on the table to answer a simple question: What makes a watch valuable? These five timepieces represent the pinnacle of collectible and desirable horology. Let’s figure our what makes them tick!
Patek Philippe Reference 5970
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Moonphase Chronograph - IN THE SHOP
First up is one of Patek Philippe’s most venerated references, the 5970. Introduced in 2004 on the heels of the 3970, 2499, and 1518, the 5970 represents the latest in a lineage of manually-wound perpetual calendar chronographs. The 5970's movement is based on the Lemania 2310, one of the most famous manually-wound chronograph calibres in the history of horology. All told, fewer than 3,000 Patek Phlippe 5970s were made across its production run, and in any given metal, a smaller subset exists. This further elevates the collectability of this reference.
To further accentuate the desirability of this model, it was sized a contemporary 40mm but paired with numerous vintage-inspired details within the dial layout, case architecture, and more. The combination of this hybrid design — paired with a relatively low production and a complicated movement — all make this watch one of the most collectible and legendary references in the history of Patek Philippe.
F.P. Journe Chronomètre a Résonance
The F.P. Journe Résonance perhaps constitutes star watchmaker F.P. Journe’s most famous contribution to the world of watches. Placing two watch movements in close proximity such that the balance wheels synchronise — and this a greater degree of chronometric precision is achieved — the Résonance displays two different time zones and has been one of the pillars of the Journe collections since its introduction in 2000.
F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance 'Parking Meter' - IN THE SHOP
Every iteration of the Résonance is a special piece, and all trade in the multiple-six figures. The Résonance was made in not more than a couple-hundred examples in any given configuration – in many cases, only double- or single digits were produced. Plus, the complicated movement comprises a considerable amount of hand finishing, an elaborate construction time investment, and several hours of synchronizing and fine tuning the escapements to dial in the accuracy of the movements.
F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance 'Parking Meter' - IN THE SHOP
Of the many different Résonance variants, this is one of the coolest, featuring a “parking meter” dial that displays the time within a rotating, parking meter-like display. This is a rare watch, and it’s a quite complicated piece of independent haute horlogerie.
Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar
Our next piece is another complicated and rare watch, this time from A. Lange & Sohne. Integrated into the existing design language of the Lange 1 collection, the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar is one of the simplest of perpetual calendar displays, and conveys all the calendar complications in a very uncluttered dial. This piece is one of the rarer versions, executed in rose gold with a contrasting dark gray dial.
A.Lange & Söhne Perpetual Calendar Ref. 345.033E - IN THE SHOP
Details continue to impress via the caseback, where a beautiful automatic-winding calibre is visible. The central winding rotor is produced in yellow gold, but flaunts a platinum strip around the outside to add winding efficiency. Alongside the Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon, this is one of the most complicated Lange 1 models.
To inquire about this piece, email us at sales@analogshift.com
Audemars Piguet 'Jumbo' Two-Register Chronograph
Our next piece is one of a small number of twin-register chronographs made by Audemars Piguet in the 1940s. This Reference 5520 dates to an era where in the maison was making only a limited number of pieces each year — far before the brand began to mass-produce its watches as we see today.
Audemars Piguet 'Jumbo' Two-Register Chronograph - IN THE SHOP
This 5520 was originally produced in stainless steel, but was fitted into a rose gold case by AP during service. A watch like this one is rare on its own, but at this kind of museum-level quality, we're talking about a different level of scarcity. This watch is unlike anything AP makes today, and serves as a time capsule harkening back to a more elegant era in watchmaking.
Cartier Tank a Guichets
Cartier has a considerable range in watch pricing, from just a couple-thousand dollars to pièce uniques that only the luckiest among us can touch. The Tank à Guichets is a perfect example of the pinnacle of Cartier watch collecting: To date, not more than perhaps 350 Tank a Guichets have ever been made. The striking timepiece features a brilliant display with numerals set into windows within the slab case, which forms the dial. This design perhaps most characteristically represents the Tank namesake.
Cartier Tank Guichets - IN THE SHOP
This particular platinum Guichets is part of a limited run of 150 pieces for Cartier’s 150th anniversary in 1997 — the first time Cartier made more than three Guichets of a particular variety. In a modern context, this limited edition has become particularly collectible, and we're quite excited to have sourced one of the most scarce Cartier creations ever made.
Tudor Submariner USN Engraved
Our final piece is a great example of how provenance can amplify a watch’s price. This Tudor Submariner features a scarcely-seen USN engraving on the caseback indicating its military issue to the U.S. Navy SEALs. These pieces rarely come up for sale, and represent the crown jewel of military watch collecting.
Tudor Submariner USN Issued 'Seal Sub' - IN THE SHOP
A clean vintage Tudor Submariner, beautiful as it is, is a relatively approachable object — but having this engraving makes this an auction-level diver. There is nothing inherently complex about its design: It's not a perpetual calendar like the Patek or the Lange above, but its story makes this a singular timepiece elevated to a completely different stratosphere of collectability.
