Welcome! In this series, we highlight some of the most compelling new watches that have entered the A:S inventory each month.
This August at Analog:Shift, we’re turning up the heat with all manner of interesting and left-field pieces, from a simple and affordable dress watch from French maker LIP to one of the most beautiful QPs ever devised from F.P. Journe. With a bunch of funky ‘70s fare on offer — complete with chunky cases and colorful dials — plus a dive watch from none other than Bulgari, we’re here to introduce you to a crop of pieces the likes of which you may never have seen. (Ready for a digital Speedmaster, everyone?) Let’s dig in…
Zenith El Primero Stratos Flyback Rainbow ($5,450)
Zenith El Primero Stratos Flyback Rainbow - IN THE SHOP
Though its contemporary lineup is generally more aesthetically restrained, Zenith experimented in the early 2000s and 2010s with daring colors, case shapes, and designs. The El Primero Stratos Flyback Rainbow, for example, used the brand’s famed automatic chronograph movement technology as the basis for a large 45mm stainless steel tool watch with rattrapante capability and numerous pops of color: orange, white, green, and yellow in the subdials, hands, and rotating timing bezel. Paired to a steel multi-link bracelet, it’s a vestige of bold 2000s watchmaking.
LIP Crosshair ($1,495)
LIP Crosshair - IN THE SHOP
French watchmaker LIP is responsible for some of the coolest, most colorful chronographs of the 20th century. That said, its wares also consisted of myriad restrained yet compelling dress and everyday watches such as this cool ‘Crosshair’ piece from the 1960s. Housed in a 35mm stainless steel case with ‘cornes de vache’ lugs and an acrylic crystal, it features a neat silver ‘crosshair’ dial with applied gold-tone ‘wedge’ and ‘Arabic’ indices, a matching ‘dauphine’ handset, and an applied “LIP” logo. Powered by an automatic movement, it comes on a super cool knurled steel bracelet.
Bulgari Diagono Scuba ($2,495)
Bulgari Diagono Scuba - IN THE SHOP
While it’s known today for the award-winning Octo Finissimo collection, Bulgari’s watchmaking division made numerous interesting timepieces in the 1990s and 2000s that are worthy of your attention. Take this col Diagono Scuba, for example: A 38mm stainless steel dive watch with an integrated bracelet, it features a unidirectional, grooved dive bezel and a black dial with applied, luminous indices; a combination ‘sword’/’Broad Arrow’ handset, and a date window at 3 o’clock. It’s rare to find dive watches with integrated bracelets, and this charming example not only looks great, but is extremely well priced as well.
Movado Kingmatic President 'Borgel Case' Dress Watch ($1,950)
Movado Kingmatic President 'Borgel Case' Dress Watch - IN THE SHOP
The late ‘60s and 1970s were an experimental era in the watchmaking story, with wildly creative case shapes, dial configurations, and color schemes making their way to the fore. This Movado President Kingmatic, housed in an oval-shaped, gold-plated case from Borgel, is one such watch: Measuring 38mm, its smooth bezel dissolves into a gold-toned dial with a taupe-colored minute track, a date window at 3 o’clock, and a luminous ‘baton’ handset. Powered by an automatic movement and paired to its original leather strap, this piece is a time capsule from the era of James Brown.
Omega Speedmaster Spacemaster Z-33 ($5,450)
Omega Speedmaster Spacemaster Z-33 - IN THE SHOP
Yes, it’s a Speedmaster — and no, it ain’t no Moonwatch! The Speedmaster Spacemaster Z-33 is an analog-digital tool watch for those with a taste for the avant-garde. Measuring 43mm in diameter in a brushed titanium tonneau-shaped case with four large pushers, it features a large dial with an outer minute track and a skeletonized handset — plus a digital readout with date, UTC, twin timezone, alarm, countdown timer, and flight tracking functionality. Paired to a signed 21mm leather strap and powered by a quartz movement, the Z-33 is not what you’d typically expect from Omega…and that’s precisely what makes it so darn cool.
Heuer Calculator Automatic Chronograph ($6,950)
HEUER Calculator Automatic Chronograph - IN THE SHOP
While we’re on the subject of chunky ‘70s case designs, try this massive 45.5mm steel Heuer Calculator chronograph on for size: Powered by one of the brand’s automatic chronograph movements, it features a unique two-piece slide rule bezel that allows the wearer to compute all sorts of useful information without the need for — well — one’s iPhone! The cool blue dial, meanwhile, features a conventional dual-register chronograph with orange and white accents, a 12-hour totalizer, a running seconds display, and a handy date window at 6 o’clock. Paired to a neat multi-link bracelet, it’s representative of the golden age of Heuer chronograph production.
Abercrombie & Fitch Sub-Sea by Movado ($2,495)
Abercrombie & Fitch Sub -Sea by Movado - IN THE SHOP
If you’re after a slimmer automatic with plenty of cool provenance, you could do much worse than this Abercrombie & Fitch Sub-Sea by Movado. Dating to the 1950s and measuring 35mm in stainless steel, it featured an integrated crown, an acrylic crystal, and a patinated dial with an outer closed minute track, luminous triangular and rectangular indices, and a cool ‘lollipop’ handset. Fitted with a Swiss-made automatic movement, it was produced by Movado and sold by none other than Abercrombie & Fitch, which was then a leading American outdoor retailer of camping, hunting, and fishing equipment.
Cartier Baignoire 'Leaf' ($9,950)
Cartier Baignoire 'Leaf' - IN THE SHOP
There’s no doubt about it: The Cartier Baignoire is having a moment. That being said, we’ll bet you’ve never seen something quite like this neat ‘Leaf’ execution before. Dating to the 1990s, it features an 18K yellow gold housing whose upper and lower extremities terminate in beautiful leap shape — each of these ‘leaves,’ in turn, it set with diamonds, making for an exquisite look that’s continued in the mother-of-pearl dial with “O” pattern and applied indices. Powered by a reliable quartz movement and paired to a black leather strap, this beautiful dress watch is the ideal cocktail party accessory.
Heuer Camaro 'First Execution' ($6,950)
HEUER Camaro 'First Execution' - IN THE SHOP
Never outfitted with Heuer’s automatic chronograph movement, the Calibre 11, the Camaro was discontinued after just four short years. This is a shame, because its sunray-finished cushion case, combined with dial configurations familiar from other marquee Heuer models, make it a fascinating proposition. This first-execution model from the late 1960s boasts a 38mm housing and a cool black dial with dual-register chronograph that appears almost charcoal depending upon the light. Powered by a hand-wound Valjoux movement and paired to a grey calfskin strap with contrasting side stitching and a steel pin buckle, it’s perfect for the budding chronograph enthusiast.
F.P. Journe Quantième Perpétuel ($144,950)
F.P. Journe Quantième Perpétuel - IN THE SHOP
While most perpetual chronographs take the more reserved form of a round watch with several subdials, the F.P. Journe Quantième Perpétuel uses three apertures to display the day, month, and date. (Technically, the date display uses two apertures for its digital readout). Joined by a power reserve display at 9 o’clock and a classically-inspired outer section with a ‘railroad’ minute track and stylized ‘Arabic’ indices, this platinum-cased beauty is a piece of true horological art: Just flip it over to view the stunning hand-decorated movement with quillochéd winding rotor, and you’ll quickly see what we mean.
