Universal Genève 'Bathtub' Dress Watch

While Universal Genève may be most famed for its Compax chronographs and the beloved Polerouter, its svelte dress watches are equally compelling.

Throughout the latter half of the 20th century, UG designed simple, time-only watches alongside its more complicated brethren that played with shape, color, and design in interesting and novel ways.

Take this dressy Ref. 842117, for example: Dating to the 1970s, it features a  24 x 35 mm stainless steel Tank-like case with a smooth bezel, an acrylic crystal, a signed crown, and a lovely black dial with applied 'baton' indices and a matching 'pencil' handset. Powered by a hand-wound movement, it comes paired to a Universal Genève-signed black leather strap with a signed stainless steel pin buckle. 

In sum, this watch is the perfect entryway into Universal Genève for the budding collector — or an excellent addition to an established collection for the person who appreciates something just a little bit different.

Universal Genève was founded in 1894 by Numa-Emile Descombes and Ulysse Georges Perret, establishing itself early on as a manufacturer of high-quality in-house movements and one of the first Swiss firms to embrace the wristwatch as a serious horological platform.

A pivotal moment came in 1897 when Louis Eduoard Berthoud, a gifted designer of complicated movements, joined the company. Under his technical leadership, Universal Genève became one of the foremost innovators in chronograph development during the 20th century. The brand's celebrated Compur and Compax chronographs earned a devoted following among aviators, military personnel, and collectors, while the Royal Family of the Netherlands granted Universal Genève a royal charter to supply chronographs to the Dutch military.

Beyond its technical achievements, Universal Genève developed a reputation for creating some of the most elegant and influential watches of the mid-century era. From the purpose-built Polerouter—designed by a young Gérald Genta—to refined dress watches such as the Cabriolet and Golden Shadow, the brand combined mechanical innovation with a distinctive sense of style that continues to resonate with collectors today.

Following decades of dormancy, Universal Genève was officially relaunched in 2026 under the stewardship of Georges Kern and the House of Brands Group. The revival marks the return of one of Swiss watchmaking's most revered names, a manufacture whose historic contributions to chronographs, micro-rotor movements, and modern watch design have secured its place among the great maisons of horological history. Vintage Universal Genève watches remain highly sought after, celebrated by collectors, historians, and enthusiasts for their enduring craftsmanship, innovation, and timeless appeal.

Our Pledge

Analog:Shift stands behind the authenticity of our products in perpetuity.

Condition

Since our pieces are vintage or pre-owned, please expect wear & patina from usage and age. Please read each item description and examine all product images.

Warranty

We back each Analog:Shift vintage timepiece with a two-year mechanical warranty from the date of purchase.

International Buyers

Please contact us prior to purchase for additional details on shipping and payment options.

All of our watches include complementary insured shipping within the 50 states.

Most of our products are on hand and will ship directly from our headquarters in New York City. In some cases, watches will be shipped directly from one of our authorized partners.

We generally ship our products via FedEx, fully insured, within 5 business days of purchase. An adult signature is required for receipt of all packages for insurance purposes. Expedited shipping is available at an additional cost. We are also happy to hand deliver your purchase in Manhattan or you may pick it up at our showroom.

Returns must be sent overnight or by priority international delivery, fully insured and paid for by the customer. A restocking fee may apply. Watches must be returned in the same condition as initially shipped.

We welcome international buyers, please contact us prior to purchase for additional details on shipping and payment options.