Patek Philippe Calatrava 'Diamond Hour'

Patek Philippe has long been known for its complicated watchmaking, but following the stock market crash of 1929, fewer clients had the means to purchase these high-end timepieces. After securing a controlling interest in the firm, Jean and Charles Henri Stern decided to to create a simple watch that would come in at a lower price point and appeal to the firm’s clientele.

Using the principles espoused by the Bauhaus school and its minimalist, function-first philosophy, the company conceived the simple Reference 96. It was only in the 1980s that this series of simple dress watches would receive a dedicated collection designation, Calatrava, which takes its name from the Spanish military order established in the 12th century that serves as the symbol of Patek Philippe. These days, 'Calatrava' is a byword for a simple dress watch — even from brands other than Patek Philippe.

This piece, a Reference 7200/50G-100, takes the idea of this simple men's dress watch and adopts it into an elegant ladies' design. Housed in a sumptuous 35mm 18K white case with a signed crown and 'officer'-style lugs, it features a mother-of-pearl dial with diamond indices, a matching 'dot' outer minute track, and a matching white gold 'spade' handset.

Powered by the Patek Philippe Calibre 240 ultra-thin automatic movement — whose attractive finishing and solid-gold winding rotor are visible via a sapphire caseback — this beautiful piece comes paired to a signed, blue alligator strap with square scales, tone-on-tone stitching, and a white gold deployant buckle. As a bonus, it also contains all its factory goodies and Certificate of Origin.

Simply put, this excellent Calatrava is everything you need — and nothing you don’t!

Founded in Geneva in 1839, Patek Philippe occupies a rare position in watchmaking: a manufacture whose name has become shorthand for the very highest level of traditional Swiss horology. Its reputation has been built not simply on complication, but on an extraordinary continuity of design, technical innovation, hand-finishing, and craftsmanship. From the elemental elegance of the Calatrava to milestones such as the Reference 1518, the first serially produced perpetual-calendar chronograph wristwatch, Patek Philippe has repeatedly created watches that define their categories rather than participate in them.

Family-owned and independent since the Stern family acquired the company in 1932, Patek has the unusual freedom to think in generations rather than seasons. That independence has produced some wonderfully contrarian decisions, including discontinuing the wildly desirable steel Nautilus Reference 5711 at the height of its popularity. Today, its collection spans restrained dress watches, complicated masterpieces, and contemporary icons such as the Nautilus and Aquanaut, yet a remarkably consistent design language runs through them all.

For many collectors, owning a Patek Philippe represents something close to the summit of the hobby; for others, Patek becomes the hobby itself. Either way, few manufactures combine history, mechanical achievement, design, rarity, and emotion quite so convincingly. And, yes, as the famous campaign has reminded us for decades, ownership is supposedly temporary. You never actually own a Patek Philippe…

Well, you know the rest.

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Condition

Since our pieces are vintage or pre-owned, please expect wear & patina from usage and age. Please read each item description and examine all product images.

Warranty

We back each Analog:Shift vintage timepiece with a two-year mechanical warranty from the date of purchase.

International Buyers

Please contact us prior to purchase for additional details on shipping and payment options.

All of our watches include complementary insured shipping within the 50 states.

Most of our products are on hand and will ship directly from our headquarters in New York City. In some cases, watches will be shipped directly from one of our authorized partners.

We generally ship our products via FedEx, fully insured, within 5 business days of purchase. An adult signature is required for receipt of all packages for insurance purposes. Expedited shipping is available at an additional cost. We are also happy to hand deliver your purchase in Manhattan or you may pick it up at our showroom.

Returns must be sent overnight or by priority international delivery, fully insured and paid for by the customer. A restocking fee may apply. Watches must be returned in the same condition as initially shipped.

We welcome international buyers, please contact us prior to purchase for additional details on shipping and payment options.