Bulova Accutron 'Breguet' Red Fumé

In 1960, Bulova imagined the future of watchmaking—and that future hummed.

The Accutron was one of the great technological leaps of the 20th century, replacing the traditional balance wheel with an electronically powered tuning fork. Developed under the direction of engineer Max Hetzel, the system delivered exceptional accuracy for its era and produced the faint, unmistakable hum that became an Accutron signature. Long before quartz reshaped the industry, Bulova had already introduced an entirely new way of keeping time.

This 1973 example shows just how adventurous Accutron design became as the Space Age gave way to the 1970s. Housed in a wonderfully angular stainless steel cushion case, the watch is dominated by a fabulous red fumé dial that graduates from glowing crimson at its center to nearly black around the perimeter. Applied stylized “Breguet” Arabic numerals add an unexpectedly traditional flourish, while luminous hands and plots complete the wonderfully idiosyncratic combination.

Inside is Bulova’s Calibre 218 tuning-fork movement, an evolution of the original Accutron technology that moved the time-setting crown from the caseback to the more conventional 4:00 position. Turn the watch over, and there’s another charming detail: a simple personal engraving on the caseback, adding a small piece of human history to an already distinctive vintage watch.

There is something especially appealing about this particular Accutron. The cushion case, dramatic fumé color, and ornate numerals capture a moment when futuristic technology and flamboyant 1970s design could happily coexist on the same wrist.

And yes, hold it to your ear. More than 50 years later, you can still hear the future humming away.

ACCUTRON FACTORY CERTIFIED PRE-OWNED

Analog:Shift is proud to be partnered with Accutron as the exclusive retailer for Factory Certified Pre-Owned timepieces. Our longstanding relationship and shared passion for horological history and design have culminated in this unique offering.

Each Accutron timepiece undergoes rigorous inspection and certification by expert watchmakers and is backed by the manufacture, ensuring unparalleled authenticity and quality.

The story of Bulova is deeply entwined with American manufacturing. Its founder, a Czech immigrant named Joseph Bulova, was inspired by the advances that Ford made in his factory in Highland Park, Michigan. In 1912, Bulova built a factory in Biel, Switzerland, using Ford’s principles of mass production.

The brand was among the first to offer a wide range of wristwatches for men, with a distinctive visual style that — thanks to its innovative adoption of advertising and a relocation to Astoria, Queens — became fixed in the American imagination. Bulova took over offices in a skyscraper on 5th Avenue in Manhattan and installed an observatory on the roof in order to measure universal time. In the workshop down below, watchmakers timed the watches they were working on against readings taken in the observatory.

The watches that Bulova produced were varied, from handsome three-handers to divers and even chronographs. Bulova produced its first chronographs in the 1940s — single-button affairs with screw-on bezels. Throughout the 1950s, 60s, and 70's, Bulova honed its mastery of such watches.

However, perhaps the brand’s single most important innovation was 1960’s Accutron, a timepiece that used an electric tuning fork in place of a traditional balance wheel. Following on the heels of the Hamilton Electric of 1957, the Accutron featured a guaranteed accuracy of two seconds per day — much better accuracy than that of a contemporary mechanical watch. (The Accutron line was later spun off and relaunched as its own brand in 2020.)

In 1971 a Bulova chronograph accompanied the crew of Apollo 15 into space. When the crystal on astronaut David Scott’s Speedmaster popped off, he strapped on his Bulova, making it the only privately worn watch to ever have been worn on the Moon. (It was subsequently auctioned off for more than $1.625M.)

Currently owned by Citizen Group and headquartered in New York City, Bulova continues to make watches inspired by its long American heritage.

Our Pledge

Analog:Shift stands behind the authenticity of our products in perpetuity.

Condition

Since our pieces are vintage or pre-owned, please expect wear & patina from usage and age. Please read each item description and examine all product images.

Warranty

We back each Analog:Shift vintage timepiece with a two-year mechanical warranty from the date of purchase.

International Buyers

Please contact us prior to purchase for additional details on shipping and payment options.

All of our watches include complementary insured shipping within the 50 states.

Most of our products are on hand and will ship directly from our headquarters in New York City. In some cases, watches will be shipped directly from one of our authorized partners.

We generally ship our products via FedEx, fully insured, within 5 business days of purchase. An adult signature is required for receipt of all packages for insurance purposes. Expedited shipping is available at an additional cost. We are also happy to hand deliver your purchase in Manhattan or you may pick it up at our showroom.

Returns must be sent overnight or by priority international delivery, fully insured and paid for by the customer. A restocking fee may apply. Watches must be returned in the same condition as initially shipped.

We welcome international buyers, please contact us prior to purchase for additional details on shipping and payment options.