If there’s one company that has taken the sub-$5K watch category by storm in the last ten years, it’s undoubtedly Tudor.
From the Black Bay to the Ranger to the Pelagos, the brand offers many of the most reliable, affordable, and attractive timepieces on the market. But the story of Tudor didn’t begin ten years ago. Today, we are taking a quick look at the origins of the Tudor brand, and making the case that it should be on your radar. Let’s get started.
A History of Tudor Watches
Hans Wilsdorf, founder of Rolex and Tudor - (Image by Rolex.org)
Rolex, founded in 1905 by Hans Wilsdorf, quickly made a name for itself with a variety of key innovations — the first truly water- and dust-proof watch, the central winding rotor, the date complication, and more. These elements of modern watches we take for granted today were actually relatively novel contributions that made Rolex. But Hans Wilsdorf was a brilliant businessman, not a watchmaker. And Wilsdorf saw an opportunity to bring the Rolex ethos to a broader audience.
And so, in 1926, Wilsdorf registered the Tudor name, designed to couple Rolex’s case innovations with cheaper movements to create an accessible package — the ultimate sports piece for the buyer on a budget. In a sense, Wilsdorf was looking for access to the complete market — the high end with Rolex, and the entry level with Tudor.
In the 1930s, the rose of the Tudor dynasty began appearing on the company's dials. - (Image by Tudor)
Early in the Tudor brand history, Wilsdorf incorporated the Oyster case and Perpetual movement to create everyday watches with reliable waterproofing. Packed with off-the-shelf Swiss movements, Tudor pieces were robust, inexpensive to service, and pf simple construction. They provided the enhancements that had solidified Rolex’s reputation, but did so in a more affordable context.
1950's Tudor Oyster Prince - ARCHIVE
When Tudor launched the Oyster Prince automatic line in the 1950s, they were some of the most affordable automatic watches on the market. In 1954, one year after the debut of the Rolex Submariner, Tudor released its own version, a brilliant dive watch with superior water resistance to almost every other comparable piece on the market at the time — but now available in an affordable package.
The Part Exchange
Perhaps the most important detail on vintage Tudor watches from the earlier eras of the brand's history is the exchange between Rolex and Tudor parts. Looking at old Tudors, you will often see Rolex’s name on the bracelet, the crown, the caseback, and the bracelet clasp. This indicated that Rolex was essentially using its own cases for Tudor watches.
Tudor Ranger 'Second Series' with a Oyster Rolex signed caseback - IN THE SHOP
Though such a parts exchange would never happen today, its use throughout the 20th century makes vintage Tudor a fascinating collector's proposition. It's also indicative of the quality of Tudor watches despite their lower price points — indeed, they truly were, in many respects, Rolex watches by any other name.
For collectors, this quirky set of pieces make collecting Tudor extremely exciting. Watches that feature the same details that make Rolex watches astronomically expensive can be had at a fraction of a cost in the Tudor equivalent. For example, Analog:Shift recently had a ghost-bezel, gilt-dial, pointed-crown guard Tudor Submariner with a gorgeous, evenly patinated dial in stock. The watch was worth a fraction of the equivalent Rolex — but for this money, one receives the same aesthetics, proportions, case, bracelet, and crown, all signed and made by Rolex. Even the handset is consistent with what Rolex was making at the time.
Tudor Submariner 'Ghost' - IN THE SHOP
If you're a lover of vintage Rolex but don’t have the resources to pour into an original — or if you want something with an incredible history intertwined with Rolex, providing the same rarity as the Rolex equivalents but not bearing the Rolex name — vintage Tudor is an incredible option. In recent years, there's been an incredible surge in collector demand for vintage Tudor.
As the modern Tudor brand continues to build steam, we expect the pricing discrepancies between vintage Tudor and Rolex watches to slowly narrow.
Tudor Watches Today
In 2025, Tudor is still living up to the dream of Wilsdorf. The brand is having a bit of a renaissance, with a variety of incredible new offerings hitting the market in the last handful of years. While these still follow the broader aesthetic of similar Rolexes, they bear a decidedly unique personality today — far more differentiated and distinct from Rolex than they once were.
Tudor's watch Manufacture located in Le Locle, Switzerland. - (Image by Tudor)
Today, Tudor operates as an independent brand. We certainly see details from vintage and contemporary Roles watches, but the days of a Tudor Submariner sold alongside an equivalent Rolex reference are seemingly over. This has allowed Tudor to grow somewhat independent from Rolex in the last handful of years and thrive according to its own destiny.
But when looking at contemporary Rolex watches, always remember the heritage, and story of the Tudor brand’s formation, and the unique role it played in the expansion of the luxury watch industry in the 20th century.
