Zenith Defy 21 Chroma II

While it may not be a household name, Zenith is certainly a known quantity within the watch world, and particularly so within collecting circles. The primary reason?

The El Primero.

This special movement helped usher in the era of the automatic chronograph in 1969, with a side effect being that certain other notable Zenith developments don't necessarily get the recognition that they deserve. Such is the case with the Defy collection, which debuted the very same year as the El Primero

The Defy collection spans an almost shocking array of references: From the beloved, vintage-inspired Revival darlings through the crazy Defy Extremes and Defy 21s, these envelope-pushing designs prove that Zenith is more than simply a one-trick pony. Check out this incredible Defy 21 Chroma II, for example: Limited to 1,000 pieces across two colorways, this oversized 44mm black ceramic chronograph features an octagonal bezel, a sapphire crystal, dual 'paddle' pushers, and a large winding crown.

Its transparent dial is ringed with a multi-chromatic decimal scale, while the main event is a rainbow-colored movement, the El Primero Calibre 293. Beating at 5Hz, this high-beat engine is finished with multi-color bridges and componentry, making for a striking visual feast when offset agains the watch's deep black case and totalizers.

Paired to a black rubber strap with rainbow stitching comes with its inner and outer boxes, papers and pamphlets, and warranty card. A rare example of the Le Locle-based maison's stunning savoir-faire, it's the perfect high-tech watch for someone who appreciates avant-garde horology.

Georges Favre-Jacot began producing pocket watches in Le Locle at the age of twenty-two. By the turn of the 20th century, Favre-Jacot was producing marine chronometers and chronometer-grade movements, one of which won a chronometry competition in Neuchâtel in 1903. Under the name Zenith, formally established in 1911, Favre-Jacot expanded his production to include wristwatches.

Zenith's chronographs in particular gained a reputation for excellence. At first Zenith used Excelsior Park and Valjoux movements, sharing them with Universal Genève and Movado (with which Zenith would merge for a time in 1969). By the 1960s Zenith acquired ébauche manufacturer Martel and began using their movements exclusively, leading to lauded calibers such as the 146HP and 146DP, which launched in 1969.
1969 was a banner year for horology, as it saw the launch of the first automatic chronograph movement.

This was a race between a team consisting of Hamilton, Heuer, Buren, Dubois-Depraz, and Breitling; Seiko; and Zenith. Zenith used the Caliber 146 as a basis for the caliber which the brand would dub "El Primero" — "the first." Of the consortium’s Caliber 11, Seiko’s reference 6139, and the El Primero, only the latter feature a “high-beat” movement for increased accuracy.

Zenith ceased using manually-wound movements in their chronographs after the introduction of the El Primero — however, then the Quartz Crisis of the 1970s hit, and the company was sold. Employees were ordered to destroy or otherwise liquidate their mechanical watchmaking tooling, but incredibly, one daring engineer, Charles Vermot, decided to hide machinery behind a false wall that he built himself in the attic of the company’s manufacture in Le Locle. He told no one about what he was doing — not even his family.

Then, in the 1980s after the company had changed hands once again, he led modern Zenith management to this secret cache of horological wonders, in which the El Primero tooling was hidden. Ebel placed the first modern order for El Primero movements in 1984, but it was Rolex, who ordered thousands of calibers to power their new automatic Daytonas, that saved the firm. Today, the El Primero powers numerous vintage-inspired chronographs as well as the new Chronomaster Sport, a watch aimed as a competitor at — with much irony — the Daytona.

Our Pledge

Analog:Shift stands behind the authenticity of our products in perpetuity.

Condition

Since our pieces are vintage or pre-owned, please expect wear & patina from usage and age. Please read each item description and examine all product images.

Warranty

We back each Analog:Shift vintage timepiece with a two-year mechanical warranty from the date of purchase.

International Buyers

Please contact us prior to purchase for additional details on shipping and payment options.

All of our watches include complementary insured shipping within the 50 states.

Most of our products are on hand and will ship directly from our headquarters in New York City. In some cases, watches will be shipped directly from one of our authorized partners.

We generally ship our products via FedEx, fully insured, within 5 business days of purchase. An adult signature is required for receipt of all packages for insurance purposes. Expedited shipping is available at an additional cost. We are also happy to hand deliver your purchase in Manhattan or you may pick it up at our showroom.

Returns must be sent overnight or by priority international delivery, fully insured and paid for by the customer. A restocking fee may apply. Watches must be returned in the same condition as initially shipped.

We welcome international buyers, please contact us prior to purchase for additional details on shipping and payment options.