Cartier Panthère Maillon

Cartier is responsible for some of the most recognizable and successful wristwatches in the history of modern horology. The definitive expert on watch design, the French maison has always been a leader in challenging conventional approaches to watchmaking while pioneering new styling as a fixture in the broader fashion world. 

In the span of the last hundred years or so, Cartier has pushed some of the most recognizable watch designs in history, from the Tank to the Santos to the Crash. In the realm of lady’s watches, few pieces possess the elegance and timeless appeal of the Panthere. The Panthere has a history that is intimately intertwined with the story of Cartier. During the First World War, the Parisian maison designed a ladies’ wristwatch with a spotted diamond and onyx pattern. Commissioned by Louis Cartier, it was a gift to Belgian-French jeweler Jeanne Toussaint, whom he referred to as ‘La Panthère.’

Over a century later, the Panthère line is still a fixture in the Cartier catalog, and the big cat motif appears frequently on watches, jewelry, and more. 

This particular Panthere Maillon is not your run of the mill piece. Exemplifying Cartier’s command of high jewelry making, this piece features an interplay between diamond setting and black lacquering to mimic the ‘panther’ motif that the collection is predicated upon. This factory correct example is a rare work of Cartier art that you are unlikely to find elsewhere. 

The Panthere Maillon in 18K yellow gold comes with a yellow gold bracelet set with the refinements of the case — diamonds and lacquering. The watch measures a perfect 22 x 30mm, a classic sizing for lady’s Cartier. The dial features a blend of diamond settings and lacquering which are accompanied by a matching sword handset.

Absolutely exquisite.

This piece is powered by a quartz movement, befitting a jewelry-forward execution like this one. It is truly the most elevated expression of Cartier for women, and would serve as an accent in a seasoned collection, or as a token dress watch for important events. 

Despite being a purveyor of haute joaillerie, Cartier has had a long tradition of making watches.

It started in 1907, when founder Louis Cartier made what was one of the first wristwatches for his friend Alberto Santos-Dumont. In the following years, the brand made a name for itself with its most famous wristwatch, the Tank, in all its multitudinous forms.

Cartier introduced the Tank in 1917 — which was supposedly inspired by the Renault FT-17 tanks seen on the battlefields of World War I — with a run of six pieces. (According to legend, these were given to American General John J. Pershing and his staff.) Cartier took the look of the Renault tank's treads and applied it to the watch’s lugs, which were integrated via brancards into the case itself. That first run of six pieces increased to thirty-three by 1920, and by the end of the 20th Century, that number stood well in the hundreds of thousands. Indeed, in sheer volume alone, the Tank — in all its various models — is Cartier's largest line of watches.

The Tank Louis was introduced in 1922, followed close on the heels of the Asian-influenced Tank Chinoise. The Chinoise, released amidst a mania for jewelry inspired by the Orient, has a square rather than rectangular case and lugs that resemble the portico of a Chinese pagoda.
From its debut, the Tank would see many variations, each in keeping with Louis Cartier’s taste for clean lines and perfect symmetry. Each variant — from the original Tank to the Tank Louis to the Cintrée with its flirtatious, curvaceous lines — has its passionate devotees. Rudolph Valentino, that sensual star of the silver screen, insisted on wearing his Tank onscreen in The Son of the Sheik, and Clark Gable, Andy Warhol, and Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis were among those who sported a one throughout the years.

Other model lines, including the Santos (based upon the original model crafted for Alberto Santos-Dumont) and the Pasha, have developed devoted followers. Indeed, the maison is unique as one of the few jewelry brands to elicit as much passion from collectors as dedicated watch companies.

Our Pledge

Analog:Shift stands behind the authenticity of our products in perpetuity.

Condition

Since our pieces are vintage or pre-owned, please expect wear & patina from usage and age. Please read each item description and examine all product images.

Warranty

We back each Analog:Shift vintage timepiece with a one-year mechanical warranty from the date of purchase.

International Buyers

Please contact us prior to purchase for additional details on shipping and payment options.

All of our watches include complementary insured shipping within the 50 states.

Most of our products are on hand and will ship directly from our headquarters in New York City. In some cases, watches will be shipped directly from one of our authorized partners.

We generally ship our products via FedEx, fully insured, within 5 business days of purchase. An adult signature is required for receipt of all packages for insurance purposes. Expedited shipping is available at an additional cost. We are also happy to hand deliver your purchase in Manhattan or you may pick it up at our showroom.

Returns must be sent overnight or by priority international delivery, fully insured and paid for by the customer. A restocking fee may apply. Watches must be returned in the same condition as initially shipped.

We welcome international buyers, please contact us prior to purchase for additional details on shipping and payment options.