Military design has long cast a stylish shadow over civilian wardrobes — and watch rolls. Many “field,” “pilot,” “diver,” and “tool” watches borrow their rugged good looks and practical details from military gear without ever being explicitly marketed as such. The same is true of clothing: pieces once designed for the battlefield, airfield, or deck have become icons of everyday style. At Analog:Shift, some of our favorite and bestselling watches draw from this lineage — proof that function and form are inseparable when the design is right. We’ve already traced this influence through the peacoat, the souvenir jacket, and the MA-1 flight jacket. Now, we turn to another enduring classic born of necessity yet redefined by fashion: the trench coat.
Portrait of Thomas Burberry - (Image by Wikipedia)
Few garments can claim a pedigree as storied — and as stylish — as that of the trench coat. Its roots stretch back to the late 19th century, when British outerwear pioneers were obsessed with solving one of fashion’s most practical problems: staying dry. Thomas Burberry invented gabardine in 1879, a tightly woven cotton that was breathable, lightweight, and water-resistant without being rubberized (the sticky standard of the day). Around the same time, Aquascutum — whose name literally means “water shield ”— was experimenting with similar rainproof fabrics. These textile breakthroughs set the stage for a new kind of coat: durable, functional, and modern.
First World War-era Burberry weatherproof trench coat ad from 1917 - (Image by Period Paper)
The trench took shape in the years leading up to the First World War, when officers sought a lighter alternative to the heavy wool greatcoats that became sodden when exposed to the elements. Its epaulets secured rank insignia, its storm flap shed rain while firing a rifle, and the belt’s D-rings held map cases or pistols. Early versions even had removable wool liners and throat latches for sealing against wind. The coat became synonymous with the officer class — Winston Churchill and countless others wore them into battle. By the Armistice, the “trench coat” had earned its name and its place in military lore.
Marlene Dietrich in a trench coat in A Foreign Affair (1948) - (Image by She Wore Stars)
After the war, veterans brought the look home. The trench became a symbol of endurance — of men who had seen the worst and emerged composed. Hollywood turned that stoicism into style: Humphrey Bogart’s Rick Blaine in Casablanca and film noir detectives from the 1940s and ’50s made the trench a uniform of world-weary sophistication. Women claimed it too — Marlene Dietrich and Catherine Deneuve wore theirs belted tight, balancing practicality and sensuality in one silhouette.
Humphrey Bogart as Rick Blaine in Casablanca - (Image by Harper's Bazaar)
As fashion evolved, so did the trench. Yves Saint Laurent elevated it in the 1960s, turning military grit into runway elegance. Burberry refined it into a luxury emblem, while avant-garde designers like Jean Paul Gaultier and Maison Margiela reinterpreted it in leather, latex, and sculptural exaggerations. Yet the essentials — the gabardine, the double-breasted closure, the belt — remained constant.
Givenchy's Spring 2026 collection - (Image by Harper's Bazaar)
Fast forward to Spring 2026, and the trench once again dominated the runways of New York, Milan, and Paris. At Burberry, Daniel Lee placed the coat front and center — right where it belongs — affirming that the trench remains central to the brand’s mainstay. Craig Green pushed the silhouette into the future with avant garde proportions and technical fabrics. At the same time, Prada and Louis Vuitton explored its heritage through subversion, reworking classic lines into something boldly modern. Bottega Veneta and Christian Dior added a luxurious polish, while Sacai and Givenchy delivered the ultimate feminine, high-fashion interpretations. Across the global fashion stage, the message was clear. More than a century on, the trench coat remains the perfect fusion of form and function.
Thrown over jeans or worn over a tuxedo, the trench coat continues to be what it has always been: a masterpiece of utility turned into an icon of cool. Like a great military-inspired watch, it’s proof that true style doesn’t chase trends—it defines them.
Some of Our Favorite Trench Coats
The Classic: Brooks Brothers — Supima Cotton Gabardine Trench Coat ($559)
Supima® Cotton Gabardine Trench Coat - SHOP HERE
Brooks Brothers, founded in 1818, is the oldest clothing brand in America and a staple of classic menswear. Known for timeless pieces like the button-down shirt and repp tie, the brand has always balanced taste with practicality. This trench coat, made from soft and durable Supima cotton gabardine, keeps all the classic details — storm flap, epaulets, and a double-breasted front. It’s a traditional, easy-to-wear piece that works just as well over a suit as it does with jeans.
Watch to go with it: Abercrombie & Fitch Sub Sea by Movado
Abercrombie & Fitch Sub Sea by Movado - IN THE SHOP
The Historical Choice: Mackintosh — Blanefield Gabardine Double-Breasted Trench Coat ($2,700)
Blanefield Gabardine Double Breasted Trench Coat - SHOP HERE
Mackintosh has been perfecting raincoats since 1824. The company was founded in Scotland by Charles Macintosh, who invented a way to make fabric waterproof and breathable, changing outerwear forever. The Blanefield trench is a nod to that history, made from sturdy cotton gabardine with classic features, shoulder epaulets, belted cuffs, and a removable lining. It’s a luxury version of a true military classic, built to handle the weather in serious style.
Watch to go with it: Jacques Bianchi French Military Issue
Jacques Bianchi French Military Issue - IN THE SHOP
The Dramatic Choice: Saint Laurent — Trench Cape in Cotton Twill ($4,500)
Trench Cape in Cotton Twill - SHOP HERE
Saint Laurent, founded in 1961, has always pushed boundaries in fashion. Known for its sleek tailoring and rock-and-roll edge, the brand takes familiar and iconic pieces and applies a distinctly Parisian sensibility. This trench cape combines military styling with a high-fashion attitude. More statement than utility play, it’s for anyone who likes their outerwear to make a bold impression.
Watch to go with it: OMEGA Jumbo Calatrava
Omega Jumbo Calatrava - IN THE SHOP
