Imagine, for a moment, that you’re an infantry officer in a trench in France in 1916. With a pocket watch in one hand and a pistol in the other, you’re trying desperately to coordinate an attack into “no man’s land” at a precisely given time. One of your hands — crucial for reloading your weapon, navigating through obstacles, and possibly recusing wounded men — is occupied holding a sensitive, hand-wound timepiece with a barely-visible dial.
Clearly, this was a problem. In the midst of the First World War, soldiers began jury-rigging pocket watches with hand-soldered lugs, affixing leather straps and turning them into primitive wristwatches, thus freeing up the use of one hand. The watch companies caught on and began a similar process at the factory, first modifying pocket watch stock, and then producing dedicated wristwatches. Suddenly, the “wristlet” was no longer only the province of women. “Strap watches” went from a “silly ass fad” to a necessity of modern combat in the space of just a few years. By the mid-20th century the pocket watch — a man’s primary timekeeping instrument for several-hundred years — was all but obsolete.
With the coming of the inter-War 1920s — “Les Années Folles” (“the crazy years”), as the French termed them — watch companies began experimenting with non-round case shapes and ever-more daring designs. Louis Cartier had been early to the party: His square-shaped wristwatch with rounded corners made for Brazilian-born aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont in 1904 had spawned an official collection by 1911. The Tank, perhaps his maison’s most famed design, debuted during the First World War, taking its shape (and name) from the profile of a then-new Renault treaded fighting vehicle as seen from above. In the 1930s and 1940s, American wristwatch producers likewise got into the “shaped” watch game, with Gruen debuting the Curvex and Hamilton debuting the Spur.
Patek Philippe Asymmetrical Ref.3422 designed by Gilbert Albert - (Image by Christie's)
It was in the post-Second World War boom of the 1950s, however, that the shaped watch trend began to take off in earnest. In 1955, Patek Philippe took a chance on a young designer named Gilbert Albert who, at just 25, was appointed chef d’atelier, or creative director, a position that he held until 1962. His asymmetrical designs, inspired by Art Deco masters such as Mondrian and Brâncuși, were even more radical and forward-thinking than the shaped Cartier wristwatches of the 1920s and 1930s. References such as the rhomboid-shaped Ref. 3422 and the magnificent, triangular Ref. 3412 won Patek Philippe the coveted Diamonds International Award three times between 1958 and 1960. Albert himself would win the award a mind-boggling 10 times.
A 1952 sketch from designer Gebhard Duve, presented to Jacques Louis Audemars. One of these would lead to the Ref. 5093 "Disco Volante" - (Image by Hodinkee)
Of course, it wasn’t just Albert who was innovating with unique case shapes. German designer Gebhard Duve developed the beautiful Ref. 5093 “disco volante” (“flying saucer”) for Audemars Piguet in the early 1950s that drew heavily on Art Deco themes. Gérald Genta, perhaps the most celebrated watch designer of all time, likewise contributed numerous avant-garde shaped watch designs to the collective horological story, the most famous of which are of course his luxury sports watches such as the 1972 Royal Oak and the 1976 Nautilus. (Today, with the luxury sports watch having taken on its own categorical definition, these iconic pieces aren’t generally considered “shaped” watches like Albert’s — though could certainly fit that description. In the 1990s, Franck Muller resurrected the tonneau and curved shapes of the early 20th century to excellent effect, while Urwerk developed some truly audacious designs that turned conventional thinking about shaped watches on its head. Richard Mille, with its riff on the tonneau shape executed in avant-garde materials, continues to gather attention for its inventiveness, as do the mad geniuses at MB&F, whose definition of “timepiece” is perhaps wider than that of any other watchmaker. Today, brands such as British microbrand Anoma — whose triangular A1 set the watch internet aflame last year — and Furlan Marri, which brought forth a modern take on the disco volante shape, are helping to spread the shaped-watch gospel to younger generations.
Whether it’s a high-ticket, rare vintage Cartier or a modern microbrand timepiece, shaped watches offer creative alternatives to more traditional shapes, giving collectors timepiece options that don’t conform to traditional horological thinking. For those who value design and a bit of whimsy, they’re an excellent way to project a bit of wrist-worn flair. At Analog:Shift, we have numerous vintage and modern pre-owned shaped watches from brands large and small. Whether it’s a classic Cartier Baignoire or an out-of-this-world Urwerk, we’re both fans and evangelizers of the shaped watch craze. Check out some of our favorites below!
Cartier Baignoire ($13,000)
Cartier Baignoire - IN THE SHOP
With its origins — like many classic Cartier designs — in the early 20th century, the Baignoire is more popular today than ever, with young collectors gobbling up especially the miniature version produced in 2024. This version from the 2020s pairs the bathtub-shaped case with a manually-wound movement and a simple leather strap — details that collectors go gaga for.
Piaget Emperador 'Mini Warhol' ($5,750)
Piaget Emoerador 'Mini Warhol' - IN THE SHOP
Famous for owning several Piaget models, Andy Warhol famously wore a cushion-shaped Piaget Black Tie. This cool Emperador (dubbed “Mini Warhol” by collectors) proudly wears its quartz-powered heart on its sleeve — or on its dial, we should say. With its multi-step bezel and back-winding crown, it’s a clear child of the 1970s in all its funky glory.
Gruen Curvex 'Baron' ($1,750)
Gruen Curvex 'Baron' - IN THE SHOP
The fascinating Gruen Curvex — powered by a Swiss-made movement but cased and timed in the United States — is a shaped watch classic. This 1930s ‘Baron’ in particular, with its two-tone black and gold dial with ‘Breguet’ indices and matching yellow gold-filled case, couldn’t be more handsome. Nearly a century after its creation, it still looks like a million bucks.
Bvlgari Octo Solotempo ($3,850)
Bulgari Octo Solotempo - IN THE SHOP
Star watch designer Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani took inspiration from several sources in crafting Bulgari’s Octo and Octo Finissimo lines: From Gérald Genta designs — Bulgari owns the late designer’s eponymous brand — as well as classical Roman architecture and more. This Solotempo celebrates the octagon by pairing it with a round bezel in a handsome steel creation.
Patek Philippe Yellow Gold Integrated Dress Watch ($38,950)
Patek Philippe Yellow Gold Integrated Dress Watch - IN THE SHOP
This absolutely stunning bracelet watch looks quite unlike anything else in the Patek Philippe catalog. Dating to the 1960s, it consists of a “woven” 18K yellow gold bracelet studded with baguette-cut sapphires that opens to reveal a silvered watch dial with applied yellow gold indices and a matching handset. Show us another cocktail watch that can compete!
Cartier Tortue XL 'Turtle' Limited Edition ($65,000)
Cartier Tortue XL 'Turtle' Limited Edition - IN THE SHOP
Though the Tortue was designed well over a century ago, we’ll bet you’ve never seen one quite like this before! Dating to the 2000s, its yellow-gold case and dial are given over to a tortoise motif — tortue being tortoise in French — executed in various techniques: Wood marquetry, enameling, and stone setting. With its pops of brown, orange, green, and yellow, it’s quite simply a breathtaking piece.
Marvin Dress Watch Bracelet ($8,750)
Marvin Dress Watch Bracelet - IN THE SHOP
Looking for a simpler (but no less compelling) take on the decorative Patek Philippe bracelet watch seen above? This beautiful piece from Marvin consists of a gorgeous yellow gold scalloped design with a perfectly hidden, hinged compartment that opens to reveal a rectangular watch head in silver with Art Deco indices. Is that classy, or what?
Urwerk UR-103 Platinum 'Targa' ($60,000)
Urwerk UR-103 Platinum 'Targa' - IN THE SHOP
Urwerk’s Star Trek-esque UR-100 series is one of the most captivating in the high-end independent watchmaking space. This particular UR-103 looks like it’s about to take off from Star Fleet HQ: Housed in a futuristic platinum case, it features the brand’s signature wandering hours complication, which uses multiple rotating displays to indicate the time in a dance of horological ingenuity.
Gerald Genta Octagonal Dress Watch ($8,450)
Gerald Genta Octagonal Dress Watch - IN THE SHOP
Star watch designer Gérald Genta is said to have designed thousands upon thousands of watches during his career. This dress watch, produced under his own eponymous branding, consists of a yellow gold octagonal case with a diamond-studded bezel paired to an integrated bracelet. Dating to the 1990s, it hints at the Octo and Octo Finissimo lines that would come out of Bulgari after that brand acquired the Genta marque in 2000.
Franck Muller Cintree Curvex ($5,450)
Franck Muller Cintree Curvex - IN THE SHOP
For something more reserved — but still beautiful — check out this handsome Cintree Curvex from Franck Muller. Its 28mm tonneau-shaped case is paired with a silver guilloché dial featuring stylized black Arabic indices, sub-seconds, and a blued steel ‘spade’ handset. Powered by a manually-wound watch, it inherits the mantle of early 20th-century Cartier in a splendid contemporary fashion.
Bulgari Parentesi ($11,250)
Bulgari Parentesi - IN THE SHOP
Bulgari is responsible for all manner of creative case shapes, complications, and movements — even so, this Parentesi stands out for its unconventional design. Dating to the 1980s, it consists of a yellow gold bracelet whose parentesi — Italian for “parentheses” or “brackets” — influence makes itself known in a repeating pattern of curves and hourglass shapes.
Bulova Accutron Cushion Case Day Date ($1,950)
Bulova Accutron Cushion Case Day Date - IN THE SHOP
Bulova’s Accutron technology was groundbreaking upon its introduction in the 1960s. This cushion-shaped model from the 1970s, however, adds precious metal and incredible Art Deco-inspired indices — plus a day-date display and a 4 o’clock crown — for good measure. Measuring 34mm, it’s an excellent choice for both men and women.
Piaget Ruby and Diamond Dress Watch ($14,770)
Piaget Ruby and Diamond Dress Watch - IN THE SHOP
This tremendously beautiful 1980s cocktail watch is proof of why Piaget is one of the world’s best watchmakers and jewelers. Consisting of a white gold “woven” bracelet with “bark” texturing, it features a spectacular watch head flanked by dual rows of diamonds plus dual rows of rubies. Its rectangular dial, meanwhile, is likewise finished in a bark-like design.
MB&F HM3 MegaWind Final Edition ($79,850)
MS&F HM3 MegaWind Final Edition - IN THE SHOP
The mad geniuses at MB&F routinely design some of the most avant-garde watches in the world. Take this HM3 MegaWind Final Edition, for example: With its frog-like profile consisting of dual “eyes” through which the time is read upon rotating discs, it leaps ahead of the competition with respect to sheer creativity and ingenuity. We promise you’ll be the only guy or gal at the Red Bar meeting with one of these on your wrist!
