Welcome! In this series, we highlight some of the most compelling new watches that have entered the A:S inventory each month.
New York Watch Week is here and bigger than ever, complete with trade shows, special events, and even a bevy of new releases from top Swiss (and other) brands. But that doesn't mean we don’t want to celebrate the vintage and pre-owned watches that form the bread and butter of Analog:Shift’s world. From a 28mm Tudor Lady-Sub to a wildly cool ana-digi Yema Spationaute ISS, this month’s crop of quirky and cool new timepieces feels timely in all the right ways. Don’t forget to make an appointment to see us if you’re in town for Watch Week — we’d love to have you in our NYC showroom and show you the best pieces from our vast collection.
Yema Spationaute ISS ($1,950)
Yema Spationaute ISS - IN THE SHOP
While we vintage nerds don’t necessarily characterize the 1990s as a prime watch-design decade, there are most certainly plenty of compelling pieces that do strike our fancy with their quirkiness. This Yema Spationaute ISS is certainly one of them: dating to the era of the 1998 Pégase mission, it features an ana-digi display with a deep blue dial, tritium indices, and an LCD screen. Housed within a 43mm stainless steel case and boasting a rotating compass bezel, it’s powered by a Seiko-sourced quartz movement and comes paired to a mesh bracelet.
Seiko 'Mini Apocalypse' Diver ($1,500)
Seiko 'Mini Apocaplypse' Diver - IN THE SHOP
If the ‘Captain Willard’ occupies a bit too much wrist-real-estate with its 44mm case, then this ‘Apocalypse Orange’ diver Ref. 2205-0760 might suit your fancy. At 33mm, it’s much more manageable but no less capable: an automatic Seiko movement serves as the power plant; a handy date wheel features on the dial; a screw-down crown and caseback provide protection from the elements; and vintage rubber ‘waffle’ strap ensures comfort. Of course, the star of the show is the bright orange dial — which does indeed conjure images of Coppola-like mayhem.
Hermès Ultra Slim ($4,950)
Hermès Ultra Slim - IN THE SHOP
Long before it began producing its own timepieces in-house, Hermès offered watches made by some of the world’s best watchmakers — either double-signed or under white-label agreement. This lovely ultra-slim dress watch from the 1970s is of the latter ilk: housed in a razor-thin 34mm stainless steel case with a subtly fluted yellow gold bezel, and crown, it features a champagne dial with black Hermès-logo cardinal indices; applied gold ‘stick’ indices; and a printed outer minute track. Powered by a hand-wound movement, it’s lost none of its charm after 50 years.
Piaget Oval Onyx 'Belt' Dress Watch ($7,950)
Piaget Oval Onyx 'Belt' Dress Watch - IN THE SHOP
If Elizabeth Taylor, Jackie Kennedy, and Andy Warhol seem like good sartorial company to keep, then you might want to try on a vintage Piaget from the 1970s or 1980s. Take this incredible Ref. 9802D, for example: executed in yellow gold, its onyx dial is a simple glossy black surface interrupted only by the Piaget wordmark and a set of yellow gold ‘dauphine’ hands. Powered by a thin hand-wound movement, it’s paired to a spectacular yellow gold and black leather modular bracelet with ‘stirrup’ links. Creative and refined, it’s ‘80s watchmaking at its best.
Universal Genève Jumbo Compax ($39,950)
Universal Genève Jumbo Compax - IN THE SHOP
There’s an argument to be made that the typography on this splendid chronograph alone is worth the price of admission — but that would be to discount the significance of its positively massive 46mm stainless steel case…and the fact that it dates to the 1940s. Powered by a hand-wound movement, this Ref. 22430 is one of the rarest forms of the Universal Genève Compax. Equipped with a silver dial in spectacular condition — including its outer blue tachymeter track, aforementioned stylized typography, and handsome subregisters — it’s simply a watch lover’s dream.
Ikepod Chronopod 'Black PPK' Chronograph ($850)
Ikepod Chronopod 'Black PPK' Chronograph - IN THE SHOP
While the original ‘90s-era crop of Marc Newsom-designed Ikepod watches are objects of fascination — and for good reason! — the market has certainly pushed pricing far from what many collectors can comfortably afford. Not so the newer iteration of the brand under the creative direction of designer Emmanuel Gueit, however: the Chronopod Ref. C007-SI-LB, for example, combines a largely monochromatic color palette with Ikepod’s classic pod-like housing. Powered by a quartz movement from Miyota, the whole package comes in solidly below $1,000.
Ulysse Nardin Classico Hayashi Tokeishu Limited Edition ($7,950)
Ulysse Nardin Classico Hayashi Tokeishu Limited Edition - IN THE SHOP
While many associate Ulysse Nardin with the Freak — the brand’s unusual tech-forward watch in which the oscillator forms the handset — the Swiss firm cut its teeth making marine chronometers and more traditional dress watches. This Classico, made in the guise of its midcentury dress-watch output, was produced in an extremely limited run of just 15 pieces for Japanese retailer Hayashi Tokeishu. Made of stainless steel and fitted with a handsome silver sunburst dial, it’s a thing of restrained beauty. (This one's also a full set and includes its factory goodies!)
Blancpain Tank ($5,350)
Blancpain Tank - IN THE SHOP
Now here’s something you don’t see everyday: a Curvex-style yellow gold ‘Tank’-type watch dating to the mid-20th century produced by…Blancpain? While known chiefly for its Fifty Fathoms Dive Watch, the Swiss marque also made numerous dressy pieces in a variety of case shapes and sizes. Measuring 20mm in diameter, this handsome hand-wound watch features a silver dial with signature applied ‘Breguet’ indices, an outer ‘railroad’ minute track, ‘leaf’ hands, and a sub-seconds display. The case architecture, meanwhile, is simply stunning.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso à Éclipses ($79,500)
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso à Éclipses - IN THE SHOP
We can be reasonably certain that you’ve never seen a Reverso quite like this one! Introduced in 2006, the Reverso à Éclipses — created in celebration of the collection’s 75th anniversary — is a sort of “Reverso within a Reverso.” While its primary dial — complete with vertical decoration, stylized Arabic numerals, blued-steel hands, and the manufacture’s intertwined “JL” signature — is impressive enough, a small slide on the case flank reveals a second dial in hard white enamel with a black 24-hour scale. Housed in a rose-gold case and limited to just 25 pieces, the Ref. 246.2.79 is easily one of the most unusual Reversos on the market.
Tudor Ladies Submariner ($4,750)
Tudor Ladies Submariner - IN THE SHOP
If the modern Black Bay 54 is still too big for you at 37mm, you might try on this fantastic Tudor Ladies Submariner! Measuring just 28mm in stainless steel and dating to the 1990s, it’s a full-on, dead-serious diver with an automatic movement, a rotating dive bezel, a matching Oyster bracelet, and even a date window. Nailing just the right mix of vintage charm and modern convenience, this neo-vintage tool watch is timeless and elegant — and a spitting image of its larger Tudor and Rolex cousins. Wear it around…and then hand it down!
