Invariably, a journey in the horological landscape passes through the land of high-end complications. And though some certainly prefer to wear simpler time-only watches, the interest in more complicated fare is all but inevitable: From the elapsed-time recording of a common chronograph to the head-spinning mechanical computation of a perpetual calendar, complicated watches capture the imagination of every collector. And though a complicated watch needn’t cost a fortune, there's something to be said about certain pieces from high-end brands that truly push the envelope.
Whether it’s a vintage chronograph from Audemars Piguet or a mind-boggling wandering hours model from Urwerk, interest in such sophisticated fare is a foregone conclusion on the watch lover’s journey. And even if you aren’t prepared to spend your yearly salary on a single timepiece, you can certainly appreciate them from afar for what they are — namely, elegant mashups of artistic creativity, micro-mechanical engineering, and jewelry. In fact, you can experience them up close: Just reach out to us using this form to visit our NYC showroom and try some of these incredible pieces on for yourself.
Breguet Classique Equation Of Time Perpetual Calendar ($53,770)
Breguet Classique Equation of Time Perpetual Calendar - IN THE SHOP
Abraham-Louis Breguet’s eponymous marque is responsible for some of the most stunning creations — and beautiful dials — ever devised by any watchmaker. The Reference 3477 from the 1990s is a perfect example: Measuring 37mm in yellow gold, this complicated piece features not only a perpetual calendar, but also a power reserve indicator as well as an equation of time indicator, which displays the difference between solar mean time and local time. Excellently sized at 36mm, it also wears exceptionally well, with an incredible guilloché dial that’s sure to stop even the most jaded collector in his tracks.
MB&F HM3 MegaWind Final Edition ($79,850)
MB&F HM3 MegaWind Final Edition - IN THE SHOP
The frog-like HM3 MegaWind from Max Büsser & Friends represents the cutting edge of avant-garde watch design. This ‘Final Edition’ is particularly striking: Housed in an oversized PVD-treated white gold and titanium case, it features a pair of twin time-telling apertures that protrude upwards from the bezel to form a brilliant, three-dimensional horological sculpture. Prominent, stylized screws and a gear-wheel-shaped screw-down crown give the watch an industrial bent while a large, transparent aperture gives a view into the in-house automatic movement. Though it might not technically be a complicated watch, the way this piece portrays the time is so unconventional — and complicated — that we believe it’s deserving of that designation.
Urwerk UR-120 'Spock' ($79,850)
Urwerk UR-120 'Spock' - IN THE SHOP
Urwerk, like MB&F, is yet another high-end independent brand that has largely thrown out the traditional rulebook and instead forged its own creative path. Much of the company’s output rests upon thoughtful interpretations of the “wandering hours” complication, a system that uses a set of rotating satellite arms to display the hours against a fixed minute track. This version, the UR-120 ‘Spock,’ features a 44mm x 47mm sandblasted steel and titanium case with a curved sapphire crystal. Unlike on more “conventional” wandering hours watches, it rotates the display by 90 degrees such that the minutes track is now situated on the dial’s right flank. Powered by the UR-20.01 automatic movement with Windfänger Planetary Turbine Automatic System, it’s a wildly thought-provoking paean to science fiction.
MB&F Legacy Machine Split Escapement EVO ($87,850)
MB&F Legacy Machine Split Escapement EVO - IN THE SHOP
While the Legacy Machine series may be slightly more subdued with respect to shape than the more avant-garde Horological Machine collection, MB&F’s creativity is certainly not constrained. The Split Escapement EVO, housed in a 44mm titanium case with a beautifully domed sapphire crystal, isolates the balance wheel at the center of the dial using a massive balance staff. In a brilliant feat of engineering, however, this is the only movement component visible from the dial side, which otherwise features separate time-telling, date, and power reserve indicator dials. The remainder of the beautifully finished, hand-wound movement designed by star watchmaker Stephen McDonnell is visible via a transparent sapphire crystal caseback.
Audemars Piguet 'Jumbo' Two-Register Chronograph ($104,770)
Audemars Piguet 'Jumbo Two-Register Chronograph' - IN THE SHOP
Fancy a true vintage beauty from one of the “Holy Trinity” brands? Then feast your eyes upon this Reference 5520 from none other than Audemars Piguet. Dating to the 1940s, it features a sumptuous, oversized 38mm rose gold case with dual ‘doorstop’ pushers, an unsigned crown, and an acrylic crystal. Its silvered dial, untouched by time, is a thing of captivating beauty: With an outer blue tachymeter track, black 1/5th-seconds track, applied rose gold ‘wedge’ indices, dual-register chronograph display with 30-minute and running seconds counter, and rose gold ‘pencil’ handset, this piece is an absolute time capsule. Powered by a hand-wound movement, it served as the reference watch for the maison’s [Re]master01 revival in 2020.
A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Calendar ($115,000)
A.Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Calendar - IN THE SHOP
The Datograph — A. Lange & Söhne’s brilliant chronograph with outsize date function — is more than impressive on its own merit. Add in a perpetual calendar complication, however, and you have yourself one of the most elegant complicated watches on the planet. This example from the 2010s is emblematic of what we mean: Housed in a 40.5mm platinum case, it features a stunningly beautiful silver dial with an outer tachymeter scale, blue printing, applied ‘Roman’ indices, an outsize date, and perpetual calendar and chronograph indications including a moonphase at 6 o’clock. Powered by the brand’s in-house Calibre L952.1 movement — a hand-wound beauty visible via a sapphire caseback — it looks like a million bucks…though it’ll cost you significantly less than that.
Patek Philippe Split Seconds Perpetual Calendar ($270,000)
Patek Philippe Split Seconds Perpetual Calendar - IN THE SHOP
Much as Lange does in Germany, Switzerland-based Patek Philippe deftly combines elegant housings with sophisticated complications to create some of the most breathtaking watches on the planet. This Ref. 5204R-001 from the 2010s is an excellent example — measuring 40mm in yellow gold, it looks much the same as many of its complicated predecessors built between the 1940s and the early 2000s: Featuring an elegant white dial with black printing, it boasts a triple-register display that, alongside several apertures, tracks the day, date, month, moon phase, leap year, elapsed minutes, and elapsed seconds. Powered by the hand-wound Patek Philippe Calibre 29-535, its classic looks are sure to delight any dedicated collector of complicated timepieces.
F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance 'Brass Movement' ($479,000)
F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance 'Brass Movement' - IN THE SHOP
Behold one of the most significant wristwatches in the world, produced by a master watchmaker at the top of his game. The F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance 'Brass Movement' which features dual escapements and dials whose proximity causes them to “synchronize” and beat more accurately, was produced in several series and iterations. This particular version, dating to 2003, is one of the earliest types and features the incredible combination of platinum 38mm case, rose gold dial, and brass movement. Utterly striking, its small guilloché dials, unique blued steel handsets, and signature 4 o’clock crown are enough to identify it as emanating from the mind of François-Paul Journe. The utterly captivating dual movements, however — visible via a sapphire caseback — are enough to set any collector’s heart a-flutter.
