Universal Genève Square 'Carrée Diamonds'

The late 1960s marked a fascinating moment in watch design. Traditional round cases gave way to bold geometry, precious metals were finished with architectural brushing instead of high polish, and diamonds became part of the design rather than mere decoration. Universal Genève embraced this new aesthetic with remarkable confidence.

This elegant Carrée embodies that spirit beautifully. Crafted in 18K white gold, its 28mm square case is defined by broad satin-brushed surfaces that lend it an unmistakably modern presence. Rather than overwhelming the design, a finely set diamond bezel—totaling approximately 0.60 carats—forms a brilliant halo around a restrained silver sunburst dial. Slender baton markers and stick hands keep the composition clean, allowing the interplay between texture, light, and proportion to take center stage.

Inside beats a manually wound Universal Genève movement with 17 jewels, a reminder that the manufacture's reputation extended well beyond the celebrated Polerouter and Compax collections. Even its most jewelry-forward creations were built with the same commitment to quality engineering that made Universal Genève one of Switzerland's most respected names throughout the twentieth century.

Fitted to a chic brown snakeskin leather strap, this Carrée possesses a versatility that feels surprisingly current. Its square profile, brushed white-gold case, and restrained use of diamonds place it squarely within today's renewed appreciation for sculptural jewelry watches. More than half a century later, this is exactly the sort of watch collectors are rediscovering. Architectural, elegant, and just unconventional enough, it demonstrates why Universal Genève remains one of the most rewarding names in vintage watchmaking.

Universal Genève was founded in 1894 by Numa-Emile Descombes and Ulysse Georges Perret, establishing itself early on as a manufacturer of high-quality in-house movements and one of the first Swiss firms to embrace the wristwatch as a serious horological platform.

A pivotal moment came in 1897 when Louis Eduoard Berthoud, a gifted designer of complicated movements, joined the company. Under his technical leadership, Universal Genève became one of the foremost innovators in chronograph development during the 20th century. The brand's celebrated Compur and Compax chronographs earned a devoted following among aviators, military personnel, and collectors, while the Royal Family of the Netherlands granted Universal Genève a royal charter to supply chronographs to the Dutch military.

Beyond its technical achievements, Universal Genève developed a reputation for creating some of the most elegant and influential watches of the mid-century era. From the purpose-built Polerouter—designed by a young Gérald Genta—to refined dress watches such as the Cabriolet and Golden Shadow, the brand combined mechanical innovation with a distinctive sense of style that continues to resonate with collectors today.

Following decades of dormancy, Universal Genève was officially relaunched in 2026 under the stewardship of Georges Kern and the House of Brands Group. The revival marks the return of one of Swiss watchmaking's most revered names, a manufacture whose historic contributions to chronographs, micro-rotor movements, and modern watch design have secured its place among the great maisons of horological history. Vintage Universal Genève watches remain highly sought after, celebrated by collectors, historians, and enthusiasts for their enduring craftsmanship, innovation, and timeless appeal.

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Condition

Since our pieces are vintage or pre-owned, please expect wear & patina from usage and age. Please read each item description and examine all product images.

Warranty

We back each Analog:Shift vintage timepiece with a two-year mechanical warranty from the date of purchase.

International Buyers

Please contact us prior to purchase for additional details on shipping and payment options.

All of our watches include complementary insured shipping within the 50 states.

Most of our products are on hand and will ship directly from our headquarters in New York City. In some cases, watches will be shipped directly from one of our authorized partners.

We generally ship our products via FedEx, fully insured, within 5 business days of purchase. An adult signature is required for receipt of all packages for insurance purposes. Expedited shipping is available at an additional cost. We are also happy to hand deliver your purchase in Manhattan or you may pick it up at our showroom.

Returns must be sent overnight or by priority international delivery, fully insured and paid for by the customer. A restocking fee may apply. Watches must be returned in the same condition as initially shipped.

We welcome international buyers, please contact us prior to purchase for additional details on shipping and payment options.