Omega De Ville 'Emeraude' Tank by Andrew Grima

There was a brief moment in the 1970s when watch design became genuinely experimental.

Traditional round cases gave way to bold geometric forms, crystals became sculptural elements, and the line between jewelry, industrial design, and watchmaking began to blur. Few brands embraced this shift more elegantly than Omega, particularly through the influence of celebrated jewelry designer Andrew Grima and the avant-garde design language that emerged from the era.

This Omega De Ville 'Emeraude' is a perfect example.

Housed in a striking 22mm x 46mm stainless steel case, the watch is less a conventional dress watch than a study in proportion and perspective. Its elongated rectangular form is dominated by a dramatic faceted crystal that transforms the dial beneath into something almost jewel-like. The effect recalls a cut gemstone viewed from above, refracting light and adding depth to an otherwise minimalist design.

The grey dial is a lesson in restraint. Slim 'baton' markers radiate from the center, while simple hands and discreet De Ville branding let the watch's architecture speak for itself. Free from unnecessary decoration, the dial feels remarkably modern even half a century later.

This aesthetic traces directly back to Omega's collaboration with Andrew Grima, whose groundbreaking "About Time" collection challenged conventional notions of what a watch could look like. While the Emeraude was part of Omega's subsequent commercial offerings, it clearly carries Grima's influence: bold geometry, gemstone-inspired forms, and a willingness to prioritize design over timekeeping.

Inside beats Omega's manually wound Caliber 620, a reliable and elegantly slim movement perfectly suited to the watch's sleek profile. The piece is fitted to a warm tan leather strap with a signed Omega steel pin buckle, completing a look that feels simultaneously futuristic and unmistakably 1970s.

Today, collectors spend enormous sums pursuing the era's most famous design icons. Watches like the Emeraude remind us that some of the most interesting creations came from brands willing to take risks.

The story of Omega is one that captivates generations of horological devotees. The second-largest watchmaker in the world in terms of annual turnover, the Bienne-based firm has been continuously producing watches since 1848, which it does today under the auspices of the Swatch Group.

Founded in La-Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland as La Generale Watch Co, Omega was well ahead of the horological curve from the beginning, developing the first minute-repeating wristwatch in 1892 as well as the eponymous “Omega” caliber in 1894. This 19-ligne movement was revolutionary in that its parts could be replaced by any watchmaker in the world without modification, while its winding and time-setting via the crown provided an industry standard.

Omega became the timepiece supplier of choice for the British Royal Flying Corps in 1917, while the Americans followed suit in 1918, choosing their watches for the U.S. Army. Awards for precision chronometry became almost commonplace, while 1932 saw them become the first watch brand to time an entire Olympic Games. Their Marine, which debuted the same year, is regarded as the first commercially available diver’s watch.

During the Second World War, Omega supplied well over 100,000 timepieces to British forces, making it the largest watch supplier to the British and her allies. These watches, from the unique 6B/159 to the famed “Dirty Dozen” W.W.W, remain highly collectible today.

1948 saw the launch of the original Seamaster: Built upon the tool watch legacy of the brand’s timepieces from the War, it’s since become a byword for reliability and legibility, both as a dress watch and, more recently, as a serious diver’s tool. The Speedmaster, released in 1957 and originally marketed for the auto-racing market, first rocketed to space on the wrist of American astronaut Wally Schirra in 1962. However, it became a household name when, in 1969, it accompanied Buzz Aldrin on the Moon, and later helped save the space-stranded crew of Apollo 13 in 1970 by timing a critical rocket burn.

Today, Omega’s watches — all of which feature in-house movements — run the gamut from svelte dress pieces to the venerable Speedmaster in all its guises. Providing an unquestionable value proposition, Omega is a brand that deserves to be at the center of every serious watch lover’s collection.

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Condition

Since our pieces are vintage or pre-owned, please expect wear & patina from usage and age. Please read each item description and examine all product images.

Warranty

We back each Analog:Shift vintage timepiece with a two-year mechanical warranty from the date of purchase.

International Buyers

Please contact us prior to purchase for additional details on shipping and payment options.

All of our watches include complementary insured shipping within the 50 states.

Most of our products are on hand and will ship directly from our headquarters in New York City. In some cases, watches will be shipped directly from one of our authorized partners.

We generally ship our products via FedEx, fully insured, within 5 business days of purchase. An adult signature is required for receipt of all packages for insurance purposes. Expedited shipping is available at an additional cost. We are also happy to hand deliver your purchase in Manhattan or you may pick it up at our showroom.

Returns must be sent overnight or by priority international delivery, fully insured and paid for by the customer. A restocking fee may apply. Watches must be returned in the same condition as initially shipped.

We welcome international buyers, please contact us prior to purchase for additional details on shipping and payment options.