Cartier 'Must De Cartier' Tri-Tone Tank

There are iconic watches, and then there are watches that have transcended watchmaking altogether.

The Cartier Tank belongs firmly in the latter category. Since its introduction in 1917, its clean geometry and architectural lines have remained remarkably unchanged, proving that truly great design rarely requires reinvention. Artists, royalty, tastemakers, and collectors have all worn the Tank, yet somehow it continues to feel as modern today as it did more than a century ago.

This particular example comes from the celebrated Must de Cartier collection, introduced in the late 1970s as a more accessible expression of Cartier's most famous designs. While many Must models embraced bold monochromatic dials, this reference takes a different approach, showcasing one of the most distinctive dial executions of the era.

Housed in a 24mm x 31mm gold-plated case, the watch features a captivating tri-frame metallic dial whose layered geometric design transforms the familiar Tank into something altogether more playful and expressive. The stepped framing effect creates depth and dimension, while retaining the clean elegance that has always defined the model. Cartier's signature blued-steel hands sweep across the dial beneath the original double Cartier signature, complete with the intertwined "CC" monogram—a charming reminder of the period in which it was produced.

The classic sapphire cabochon crown remains present, of course, while inside beats a manually wound movement that reinforces the mechanical appeal collectors increasingly seek in vintage Must models.

Paired with a black leather strap and period-correct gold-tone pin buckle, this Tank occupies a sweet spot in the Cartier universe: instantly recognizable, undeniably stylish, and just unusual enough to stand apart from the crowd.

The Must de Cartier line was never intended to be ordinary. Pieces like this remind us just how creative Cartier was willing to be when given the freedom to experiment.

Because even an icon like the Tank occasionally benefits from a little disco-era swagger.

Despite being a purveyor of haute joaillerie, Cartier has had a long tradition of making watches.

It started in 1907, when founder Louis Cartier made what was one of the first wristwatches for his friend Alberto Santos-Dumont. In the following years, the brand made a name for itself with its most famous wristwatch, the Tank, in all its multitudinous forms.

Cartier introduced the Tank in 1917 — which was supposedly inspired by the Renault FT-17 tanks seen on the battlefields of World War I — with a run of six pieces. (According to legend, these were given to American General John J. Pershing and his staff.) Cartier took the look of the Renault tank's treads and applied it to the watch’s lugs, which were integrated via brancards into the case itself. That first run of six pieces increased to thirty-three by 1920, and by the end of the 20th Century, that number stood well in the hundreds of thousands. Indeed, in sheer volume alone, the Tank — in all its various models — is Cartier's largest line of watches.

The Tank Louis was introduced in 1922, followed close on the heels of the Asian-influenced Tank Chinoise. The Chinoise, released amidst a mania for jewelry inspired by the Orient, has a square rather than rectangular case and lugs that resemble the portico of a Chinese pagoda.

From its debut, the Tank would see many variations, each in keeping with Louis Cartier’s taste for clean lines and perfect symmetry. Each variant — from the original Tank to the Tank Louis to the Cintrée with its flirtatious, curvaceous lines — has its passionate devotees. Rudolph Valentino, that sensual star of the silver screen, insisted on wearing his Tank onscreen in The Son of the Sheik, and Clark Gable, Andy Warhol, and Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis were among those who sported a one throughout the years.

Other model lines, including the Santos (based upon the original model crafted for Alberto Santos-Dumont) and the Pasha, have developed devoted followers. Indeed, the maison is unique as one of the few jewelry brands to elicit as much passion from collectors as dedicated watch companies.

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Condition

Since our pieces are vintage or pre-owned, please expect wear & patina from usage and age. Please read each item description and examine all product images.

Warranty

We back each Analog:Shift vintage timepiece with a two-year mechanical warranty from the date of purchase.

International Buyers

Please contact us prior to purchase for additional details on shipping and payment options.

All of our watches include complementary insured shipping within the 50 states.

Most of our products are on hand and will ship directly from our headquarters in New York City. In some cases, watches will be shipped directly from one of our authorized partners.

We generally ship our products via FedEx, fully insured, within 5 business days of purchase. An adult signature is required for receipt of all packages for insurance purposes. Expedited shipping is available at an additional cost. We are also happy to hand deliver your purchase in Manhattan or you may pick it up at our showroom.

Returns must be sent overnight or by priority international delivery, fully insured and paid for by the customer. A restocking fee may apply. Watches must be returned in the same condition as initially shipped.

We welcome international buyers, please contact us prior to purchase for additional details on shipping and payment options.