Breitling Navitimer 'Twin Jet'

Breitling first started manufacturing chronographs as early as the 1910s. But it was the brand's midcentury output that truly shook up the watch world. 

Perhaps the most iconic of these models is the Navitimer Ref. 806. First and foremost a pilot's watch — designed for pilots and with pilots' needs in mind — it remains near the top of virtually every vintage watch collector's wish list.

In classic "form follows function" style, the Navitimer was engineered to be a tool, with a slide-rule navigation computer operated by an internally-rotatable bezel. Based upon the company's earlier Chronomat model from the 1940s, this system proved extremely useful in the age before digital avionics. 

Developed in conjunction with the Aircraft Owners and Pilots' Association (AOPA), the earliest Navitimers bore that organization's logo on a dial with black-on-black with white or gold printing. (These were replaced with the now-classic silver-on-black 'reverse panda' appearance in 1959). In the 1960s, Breitling changed the bezel from a beaded to a serrated version and the dial — which had transitioned from an AOPA to a winged Breitling logo — evolved once again to one featuring dual jet engine tails. Dubbed "Twin Jet" Navitimers, these '60s watches have since become extremely collectible. 

Housed in 41mm stainless steel case with a serrated bezel, dual pump pushers, a signed crown, and acrylic crystal, this 1960s Navitimer 'Twin Jet' Reference 806 features a matte black dial with internal slide rule bezel in black, white, and red; luminous tritium 'dash' and 'Arabic' indices; the famous 'Twin Jet' logo in white; a triple-register chronograph layout; and a luminous 'sword' handset.

Powered by the hand-wound Venus 178 movement and paired to a brown nubuck leather strap with a stainless steel pin buckle, it's a superb classic in excellent shape. Whether you're looking for a daily driver or you're building a collection of the most important models in the world, this Navitimer will fit right in!

Breitling, one of the most illustrious names in the annals of the “tool watch,” was founded by Léon Breitling in 1892. And though the firm is no longer operated by its namesake family, it still produces some of the world’s best pilot’s watches, many of which now feature in-house movements.

The company first started manufacturing wrist chronographs as early as the 1930s. In 1936 they became an official supplier to military forces of the United Kingdom and Canada. While perhaps best known for the Navitimer and Chronomat lines — which were used heavily by pilots of many nations — Breitling also produced scores of other chronograph models that merit consideration, such as the more affordable Top Time and Premier. Dive watches, such as the Super Ocean, are also part of the company’s offerings.

The late 1970s was a turbulent time for the Swiss watch industry, and many storied houses were swept away by the Quartz Crisis. By 1978, Breitling was in trouble due to the illness of its leader, Willy Breitling, and the steep decline in sales that had cut through the entire industry. Unable to keep operations going, the company was liquidated, and parts, toolings and naming rights were sold off.

Between 1979 and 2017, Breitling continued under the ownership of the Schneider family. In 2017 an 80% stake in the firm was sold to a British private equity firm, with the remaining 20% sold in 2018. In 2019, the company released the caliber B01, an in-house, automatic chronograph movement that’s since found its way into the Chronomat and Navitimer collections, bringing the tale of this famed manufacturer full circle.

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We back each Analog:Shift vintage timepiece with a two-year mechanical warranty from the date of purchase.

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