Wakmann Triple Calendar 'Reverse-Panda' Chronograph

 

In the boom years following the Second World War, the Swiss watch industry was in growth mode. Swiss made watches became a buzzword for quality and precision, and demand was growing far beyond the borders of Europe. Brands were scaling rapidly to meet unprecedented demand and began partnerships with agents to distribute their timepieces around the globe.

One of the most lucrative of these relationships was between Breitling and its U.S. based distributor, Wakmann.

Wakmann was founded in New York by Icko Wakmann. He arrived in 1946, at the perfect time: the U.S. watch industry was trying to kickstart itself after years of fulfilling military contracts. One of the ways the government achieved this was to impose tariffs on high-end Swiss imports, like watches. This presented a unique opportunity for U.S. based distributors to sell high-end Swiss at entry-level price points. Wakmann entered into such an agreement with Breitling in 1947, importing disassembled Breitling chronographs and dress watches, and then managing the assembly, distribution networks and sales in the U.S. 

They also organized for high-end Swiss made watches to be private-labeled for themselves.

This 1960s triple calendar chronograph, a Reference 7.1309.70, is one such privately-labeled watch. It features a stainless steel case, barrel chronograph pushers, a signed crown and a charming-as-hell domed acrylic crystal. Loaded with patina, its ‘reverse panda’ dial features tritium indices, a matching baton handset, white subsidiary dials, an outer calendar track and day/month apertures. Internally powered by the manual-winding Valjoux 730, the quality of materials and construction throughout is immediately noticeable.

At roughly 37mm in diameter, it feels fantastic on the wrist, and the sporty reverse panda dial is an absolute delight. This Wakmann has a ton of character and is a great way to get your hands on a quality triple calendar without having to cash in your Roth IRA.

During the throes of the Second World War, in 1943, Icko Wakmann created a luxury watch distribution company in neutral Portugal. Upon his arrival to the United States in 1946, this enterprising businessman set up shop in New York City, and at a fortuitous time, too: A new import tariff on Swiss goods had recently been enacted in order to help American manufacturing catch up from its conversion to wartime production. Wakmann would import Swiss brands in the form of parts, assemble them himself, and co-brand and sell them under the Wakmann name — thus sidestepping the tariff.

Beginning a partnership with Breitling in 1947, Wakmann commenced distribution of his assembled Swiss watches Stateside and did quite well for himself. Co-branded aviation clocks for the U.S. military and civilian sectors flew off the shelves in the post-War boom; handheld timing instruments for industry and sport filled pages and pages of hand-drawn catalogs; chronographs of all shapes, sizes and complications were made for professionals of all stripes.

The brand’s triple-calendar chronographs of the 1950s and ‘60s — powered by venerated Valjoux hand-wound movements and signed solely with the Wakmann name — are gorgeous examples of midcentury industrial design and remain sought-after today. Their more affordable watches in chromed cases, produced under partnership with Charles Gigandet, provided an entry point into fine Swiss watchmaking for a younger segment of the population. Unique pieces such as the colorful “Big Boy” chronograph — first powered by Valjoux and later by Lemania movements — are proof of Wakmann’s eye for color and design.

In the 1970s, before the coming of the Quartz Crisis, Wakmann produced a wildly complicated regatta timer dubbed the Regate. Powered by the automatic Lemania caliber 1341, it featured a chronograph, regatta timer, and full calendar bezel controlled by an additional crown at 11 o’clock. And though the company was unfortunately consumed by the Quartz Crisis, its legacy lives on through its incredible range of chronographs, and via Breitling — indeed, without Wakmann, it’s doubtful the brand would have succeeded in the U.S. market at all.

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Condition

Since our pieces are vintage or pre-owned, please expect wear & patina from usage and age. Please read each item description and examine all product images.

Warranty

We back each Analog:Shift vintage timepiece with a one-year mechanical warranty from the date of purchase.

International Buyers

Please contact us prior to purchase for additional details on shipping and payment options.

All of our watches include complementary insured shipping within the 50 states.

Most of our products are on hand and will ship directly from our headquarters in New York City. In some cases, watches will be shipped directly from one of our authorized partners.

We generally ship our products via FedEx, fully insured, within 5 business days of purchase. An adult signature is required for receipt of all packages for insurance purposes. Expedited shipping is available at an additional cost. We are also happy to hand deliver your purchase in Manhattan or you may pick it up at our showroom.

Returns must be sent overnight or by priority international delivery, fully insured and paid for by the customer. A restocking fee may apply. Watches must be returned in the same condition as initially shipped.

We welcome international buyers, please contact us prior to purchase for additional details on shipping and payment options.