Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Moonphase Chronograph

Of course, there’s no arguing that Patek Philippe sits atop the watchmaking pinnacle as the finest manufacture in the world.

But while Patek is world renowned for its superb in-house movements, it should be noted that up until fairly recently, even its complicated chronographs used source Swiss movements from the likes of Lemania, and before that, Valjoux. Of course, these were superbly finished versions of ebauchés, but this is old-school watchmaking in a nutshell: A maison such as Patek would source the parts from the very best manufacturers, and in the 1980s and 1990s, that was Lemania.

The Reference 3970E we have here is a waterproof version of a perpetual calendar chronograph produced between 1986 and 2004, preceded by the ref. 2499 and succeeded by the ref. 5970. It’s powered by the Calibre CH 27-70 Q manually-wound movement — Patek’s modified version of the Lemania Calibre 2310. Hand-finished and beautiful, it formed the basis of not only this watch, but also the Calibre 321 used in the first Omega Speedmatsers. 

What is this notable movement powering? Namely, a dial with an incredible amount of information, conveyed in an elegant form that only a maison such as Patek Philippe could design: On its beautiful silvered dial with applied yellow gold indices, there are dual day and month displays beneath the 12:00 index; a combined 30-minute totalizer and leap year indicator at 3:00; a combined date wheel and moon phase indicator at 6:00; and a combined running seconds and 12-hour totalizer at 9:00. (And yes, the 3970E also tells the time.)

Housed in a beautifully finished 36mm yellow gold case with round pushers, this particular 3970 is an “E” variant — for étanche, or waterproof — meaning it features a screw-down case back. It comes fitted to a signed black alligator leather strap with a signed yellow gold pin buckle.

Beautifully sized with a gorgeous dial and featuring one of the most notable chronograph movements in history, we’ll be damned if this isn’t one of the most stunning complicated watches we’ve ever had the pleasure to offer.

Founded in 1839, Patek Philippe is one of the oldest watch manufacturers in the world with an uninterrupted watchmaking history. Few international luxury brands carry the gravitas of their name, and for good reason. The firm's commitment to excellence in horological manufacture is unflinching, and their track record of innovation in design without peer. They continue to lead the industry, and even their fiercest competitors have nothing but the utmost respect for the company.

From the simple elegance of their Calatrava line to the stunning study in miniaturization that is reference 1518 perpetual calendar to the modern reference 5750P chiming watch, Patek’s catalog is chock full of some of the most elegant and complicated timepieces ever made. Family-owned and completely independent, the firm has the freedom to do what it wants — such as discontinue one of the world’s most beloved steel luxury sport watches, the reference 5711 — when it wants.

Owning a Patek Philippe is for many the ultimate goal of timepiece collecting, and for a certain type, the only timepieces they collect. Whichever way you look at it, there is no questioning the elegance of design, superlative manufacture of their cases and movements, or the sheer elegance and emotion that comes from owning one.

Of course for a brand that is steeped in heritage, we are told “You never actually own a Patek Philippe…”

Well, you know the rest.

Our Pledge

Analog:Shift stands behind the authenticity of our products in perpetuity.

Condition

Since our pieces are vintage or pre-owned, please expect wear & patina from usage and age. Please read each item description and examine all product images.

Warranty

We back each Analog:Shift vintage timepiece with a one-year mechanical warranty from the date of purchase.

International Buyers

Please contact us prior to purchase for additional details on shipping and payment options.

All of our watches include complementary insured shipping within the 50 states.

Most of our products are on hand and will ship directly from our headquarters in New York City. In some cases, watches will be shipped directly from one of our authorized partners.

We generally ship our products via FedEx, fully insured, within 5 business days of purchase. An adult signature is required for receipt of all packages for insurance purposes. Expedited shipping is available at an additional cost. We are also happy to hand deliver your purchase in Manhattan or you may pick it up at our showroom.

Returns must be sent overnight or by priority international delivery, fully insured and paid for by the customer. A restocking fee may apply. Watches must be returned in the same condition as initially shipped.

We welcome international buyers, please contact us prior to purchase for additional details on shipping and payment options.