Audemars Piguet Star Wheel

Audemars Piguet is more than the Royal Oak. Period.

The more elegant and eccentric displays of timekeeping couldn't be any further removed from sporty nature of the Royal Oak line the brand is perhaps most commonly known for amongst today's collectors. Harkening back to a time of innovation in many respects, it represents an era in which the maison took a plethora of risks, and resulted in several fabulous pieces.

In 1991, AP released the Reference 25720, or more affectionately known as the ‘Star Wheel.’ Its unique dial configuration was an unconventional design for the time period given the popularity of robust, stainless steel sports watches. Its precious metal case paired with a dancing disc display has served as an inspiration for modern watchmaking within the maison's catalog, as well as other contemporary design houses.

The Star Wheel was truly ahead of its time.

This piece, a Reference 25720OR, dates to the 1990s and features a 36mm 18K rose gold case with a stepped bezel, a sapphire crystal, a correct unsigned crown and a sapphire exhibition caseback framing the JLC-based, Calibre 2124 automatic movement. At just 9mm in case thickness and sporting a 36mm lug to lug, this piece is incredibly wearable for most wrist sizes.

The magic however, is in the dial. Featuring three separate sapphire discs with printed numerals, this configuration mechanically dances so that each disc rotates to display the corresponding hour as it makes its orbit across the minute minute track located between 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock. In addition to the unique time display, this piece features a beautifully engraved rose gold dial plate within the southern dial hemisphere and a central exhibition aperture that presents its 'Star Wheel' mechanics.

Paired with a brown suede strap with a signed, 18K rose gold pin buckle, this piece is accompanied by a signed, suede-lined, inner box as well as its corresponding outer box.

With its sleek design coupled with a striking dial, this piece is a remarkable embodiment of the daring risks taken by Audemars Piguet in the early 90s!

Goodbye to the integrated stainless steel sports watch craze and hello to the weird and interesting pieces clad in gold!

There are certain watches that define a brand, informing its design ethos and becoming nothing short of iconic in the minds of collectors. For Audemars Piguet, that watch is the Royal Oak, in all its multitudinous incarnations. Yet the manufacture from Le Brassus did not earn its seat in the triumvirate of leading watch brands — the so-called Big Three — on the success of the Royal Oak alone.

In fact, both Jules Audemars and Edward Piguet came from long lines of watchmakers, and made their reputations long before the Royal Oak was conceived. Their reputations rested on their ability to create incredibly elegant timepieces in numerous styles. While some of these timepieces were simple, elegant dress watches, others were one-off or short-series pieces produced at the rate of a handful per year. (Some years, Audemars Piguet only produced a few hundred watches in total.) Calendar watches, chronographs, minute repeaters — all the delights of haute horlogerie were part and parcel of the AP oeuvre long before the Royal Oak made its debut in 1972.

Technical innovations from AP abound and include the first minute-repeating movement, the first skeleton watch and an ultra-thin automatic tourbillon. Newer collections, such as the Code 11.59 from 2019, see the maison continue to develop new and exciting watches and calibers, the likes of which aren’t based upon tired horological tropes from models past. (Though if vintage reissues are your bag, AP does have a special “Remaster” line — currently consisting of just one model — that reimagines some of its classical, complicated pieces from the mid-20th century.)

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Condition

Since our pieces are vintage or pre-owned, please expect wear & patina from usage and age. Please read each item description and examine all product images.

Warranty

We back each Analog:Shift vintage timepiece with a one-year mechanical warranty from the date of purchase.

International Buyers

Please contact us prior to purchase for additional details on shipping and payment options.

All of our watches include complementary insured shipping within the 50 states.

Most of our products are on hand and will ship directly from our headquarters in New York City. In some cases, watches will be shipped directly from one of our authorized partners.

We generally ship our products via FedEx, fully insured, within 5 business days of purchase. An adult signature is required for receipt of all packages for insurance purposes. Expedited shipping is available at an additional cost. We are also happy to hand deliver your purchase in Manhattan or you may pick it up at our showroom.

Returns must be sent overnight or by priority international delivery, fully insured and paid for by the customer. A restocking fee may apply. Watches must be returned in the same condition as initially shipped.

We welcome international buyers, please contact us prior to purchase for additional details on shipping and payment options.