Blancpain Fifty Fathoms MIL-SPEC Limited Edition for HODINKEE 'New Old Stock'

The Blaincpain Fifty Fathoms is without question one of the most iconic dive watches in history, and arguably the first; however, it might never have been made at all were it not for one man — Jean-Jacques Fiechter of Blancpain.

In 1952, the French Navy and Secret Services tasked two veterans with a formidable mission. These men — Lt. Claude Riffaud of the Navy and Captain Bob Maloubier of the Secret Services — were to create a specialized unit of combat divers, meant to act under the utmost secrecy. Some of the missions they were to enact included attacking ports, disrupting supply lines and sabotage of enemy vessels.

Riffaud and Maloubier had a general idea of what gear the divers needed — compasses, depth gauges, and of course, watches. But as far as the watches were concerned, there was none on the market specifically designed for the purposes for which these combat divers would utilize them.

So Maloubier, armed with a pencil and protractor, sketched a watch. Not just any watch, but a watch ideally suited for diving. It needed to have a robust, watertight case and a dial that would be legible in the darkest of nights, at the deepest of depths.

Pitched to several well-known manufactures, Blancpain was the only house that agreed to produce Maloubier's new design. Fiechter, Blancpain’s CEO at the time, relied on Maloubier's expertise and diving experience to create a unique timepiece equipped with a Bakelite bezel and rubber gaskets. Nothing like it had been seen before — and thus the world's first purpose-built diver's watch was born. Blancpain called it the Fifty Fathoms.

This example, a Fifty Fathoms MIL-SPEC Limited Edition for HODINKEE, is a faithful modern reinterpretation of any early-series model used by the U.S. Navy. Measuring 40.3mm in stainless steel with a signed crown, a unidirectional dive bezel with a sapphire insert, and an unmarked caseband, it features a matte black dial with luminous indices, an outer open minute track in white, a luminous 'sword' handset, and a fully functional moisture indicator.

Powered by Blancpain's automatic Calibre 1154 movement with silicon balance spring and 100 hours of power reserve, the Fifty Fathoms MIL-SPEC Limited Edition for HODINKEE comes paired to a black NATO-style strap and is accompanied by its factory goodies. For someone who appreciates early dive watch history, this modern take on a vintage military piece is as good as it gets.

It's also limited to just 250 examples, so you know what to do!

Blancpain, the esteemed Swiss manufacturer that opened its doors in 1735 (and the oldest surviving watchmaker in the world), is known globally for crafting some of the most elegant pocket and dress wristwatches in history. Many of these pieces are brilliant works of horological art, and as a category are worthy of in-depth study and analysis. Since the firm’s acquisition by the modern forerunner of the Swatch Group in 1992, it has become synonymous with dazzling and complicated dress pieces, many of which are produced in precious metals.

But Blancpain's other genius — and what has arguably ensured their legacy — is the entrant into the world of purpose-built tool watches, and the industry's prototypical modern diver's watch: the legendary Fifty Fathoms. The genesis of this legendary timepiece has its roots in post-World War II France, where Captain Bob Maloubier (previously of the Special Operations Executive) and Lieutenant Claude Riffaud were tasked with setting up the French combat diver commando unit. The two approached Blancpain in the pursuit of a specialized diver’s watch — the design of which Maloubier drew up himself — and the Fifty Fathoms was born.

Later adopted by the militaries of Germany and the United States, the Fifty Fathoms now forms the core of Blancpain’s dive watch collection, having spawned myriad iterations over the years, including complicated and chronograph versions. It is the savoir faire necessary to produce such disparate products as an elegant gold moon phase and a steel combat diver’s watch that makes Blancpain such a fascinating company, and a compelling product to collect.

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We back each Analog:Shift vintage timepiece with a two-year mechanical warranty from the date of purchase.

International Buyers

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Most of our products are on hand and will ship directly from our headquarters in New York City. In some cases, watches will be shipped directly from one of our authorized partners.

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Returns must be sent overnight or by priority international delivery, fully insured and paid for by the customer. A restocking fee may apply. Watches must be returned in the same condition as initially shipped.

We welcome international buyers, please contact us prior to purchase for additional details on shipping and payment options.