Universal Genève Automatic 'King Faisal'

There are certain vintage watches that don’t just come with provenance, they come with atmosphere. This Universal Genève Automatic is one of them. Rendered in 18K yellow gold and dating to the 1960s, it’s an already-compelling dress watch made extraordinary by what appears on its dial: the Saudi Royal Family coat of arms, paired with the name of the late King Faisal.

It’s a detail that immediately shifts the watch from “beautiful” to “historical.” We believe this piece was most likely presented as a gift from King Faisal to a member of his forces, a token of recognition delivered not in the form of a medal, but as something far more personal. A wristwatch is intimate. It’s carried through daily life, worn close to the pulse, and in this case, it becomes a quiet emblem of service and status.

The watch itself is everything you’d want from Universal Genève at mid-century. The 32mm case is elegant and perfectly proportioned, and the non-luminous dial remains in outstanding condition, allowing the royal insignia and signature to take center stage without distraction. The hands are a particularly striking touch: black steel hour and minute hands that create sharp contrast and lend the piece a graphic, almost ceremonial clarity.

Inside beats an automatic Universal Genève movement fitted with the brand’s signature gold micro-rotor, a technical calling card that helped define the Polerouter line and made UG one of the most important names in 20th-century watchmaking. It comes fitted to a black crocodile leather strap with a signed Universal Genève pin buckle, completing the look with the right level of formality.

Even better, this piece is accompanied by a box, travel pouch, papers, and an original note card whose translation reads: “By order, His Majesty King Faisal Al-Azam, Head of Royal Ceremonies, with best regards.” It’s the kind of ephemera that turns a great watch into a complete story.

Universal Genève has always been beloved for its design language and mechanical ingenuity. But every so often, a watch like this appears, and reminds you that the most captivating watches are the ones that lived in the world. Not just in catalogs, but in history.

Universal Genève was founded in 1894 by Numa-Emile Descombes and Ulysse George Perret.

In the brand's earliest days, it established itself as a manufacturer of in-house movements of exceptional quality. Universal Genève was also among the first watch manufactures to specialize in wristwatches. In 1897, Louis Eduoard Berthoud — noted designer of complicated watch movements — joined the company. His involvement ensured Universal Genève's supremacy in the development of complicated watches in the 20th Century.

It was under Berthoud's leadership that the brand's reputation as a producer of chronographs was solidified. Chronographs, in particular — namely the Compur and the Compax lines — attracted the attention of watch aficionados, aviators, and militaries around the world. Even the Royal Family of the Netherlands issued a royal charter for Universal Genève to outfit the Dutch military with its chronographs.

Universal Genève was also once responsible for some of the most beautiful dress and time-only watches of the mid-20th century. From the purpose-driven Polerouter to the ornate Cabriolet, UG had a touch all its own and breathed incredible beauty and craftsmanship into every piece they produced. Although the brand is currently dormant, there is tremendous interest in collector circles for vintage models, and is regarded very highly by horological historians and design enthusiasts alike.

Our Pledge

Analog:Shift stands behind the authenticity of our products in perpetuity.

Condition

Since our pieces are vintage or pre-owned, please expect wear & patina from usage and age. Please read each item description and examine all product images.

Warranty

We back each Analog:Shift vintage timepiece with a two-year mechanical warranty from the date of purchase.

International Buyers

Please contact us prior to purchase for additional details on shipping and payment options.

All of our watches include complementary insured shipping within the 50 states.

Most of our products are on hand and will ship directly from our headquarters in New York City. In some cases, watches will be shipped directly from one of our authorized partners.

We generally ship our products via FedEx, fully insured, within 5 business days of purchase. An adult signature is required for receipt of all packages for insurance purposes. Expedited shipping is available at an additional cost. We are also happy to hand deliver your purchase in Manhattan or you may pick it up at our showroom.

Returns must be sent overnight or by priority international delivery, fully insured and paid for by the customer. A restocking fee may apply. Watches must be returned in the same condition as initially shipped.

We welcome international buyers, please contact us prior to purchase for additional details on shipping and payment options.