Having graduated from the sub-$5,000 category we tackled last on Transmissions, we find ourselves in territory in which solid-gold dress watches abound, strange complications are the norm, and even avant garde references from high-end independent brands are accessible. Looking for a precious-metal timepiece with a semi-precious stone dial? Check. What about a Japanese-made watch powered by a hybrid movement that features a bright pink dial inspired by cherry blossoms? Also, check. The possibilities are boundless.
In this Transmission, we’ve tried to present a variety of watches priced between $5,000 and $10,000, including dress watches, chronographs, divers, field watches, everyday pieces, and even an avant garde piece from a small-batch manufacturer. The watches in this category are myriad, however, so it’s best to check back frequently on our website using this price-bracketed filter to see what we have in our inventory at any given time. Of course, you can always reach out to us for helping in sourcing a specific watch. Happy hunting!
Universal Genève Polerouter Deluxe ($5,500)
Universal Geneve Polerouter Deluxe - IN THE SHOP
With its travel-centric tie-in to commercial aviation history — (it was developed to commemorate Scandinavian Airlines Systems’ flights from the U.S. to Europe over the North Pole) — the Universal Genève Polerouter is one of the best-loved timepieces of famed watch designer Gérald Genta. This version, in sumptuous yellow gold, features the collection’s famed micro-rotor automatic movement, twisted-lug case, and handsome dial design with dauphine handset; meanwhile, a simple, black leather strap transforms it into a most excellent accessory to formalwear. What could be better than a souped-up version of a horological classic?
Piaget Protocole 'Jade' ($5,900)
Piaget Protocole 'Jade' - IN THE SHOP
Piaget is a specialist in ultra-thin watchmaking, but it’s also responsible for some of the most interesting designs of the last 50 years, full stop. Take this Protocole dress watch, for example: Housed in a rectangular, yellow gold case with handsome vertical finishing, it features a stunning green dial crafted from jade and is outfitted with yellow gold Roman indices, as well as a matching yellow gold ‘dauphine’ handset. Powered by a hand-wound movement and paired to a signed, brown pebble leather strap with a signed, yellow gold pin buckle, it’s certainly not a timepiece that’s going to fly under the radar…and that’s kinda the point!
Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive 62GS 'Shunbun' ($6,450)
Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Dive 'Shunbun' - IN THE SHOP
There may be no better everyday watches than those in the contemporary 62GS collection from Grand Seiko. The 62GS Reference SBGA413, in particular, is crafted from ultralight titanium and is powered by Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive Calibre 9R65 — a sort of hybrid movement that offers the best of both mechanical and quartz technology. With its stunning ‘Shunbun’ pink dial, it recalls the moment after a spring equinox when cherry blossoms are scattered to the wind. Measuring a perfect 40mm wide and paired to a matching titanium multi-link bracelet, it offers a date window as well as a power reserve indicator.
Gallet Multichron Yachting 'Big Eye' ($6,700)
Gallet Multichron Yachting 'Big Eye' - IN THE SHOP
We’re on record saying that the regatta timer — which times the countdown to a sailing race — is one of the coolest chronograph-adjacent complications in the watch world. This particular example from Gallet, a Multichron Yachting ‘Big Eye,’ is clean, unique, and beautiful, looking fresh as the day it was born over 60 years ago. Measuring 35mm in a stainless steel case, it features a handsome, satin silver dial with black Arabic indices, a matching ‘sword’ handset, an outer 1/5th-seconds track, and a dual-register chronograph with ‘big eye’ regatta timer at 3 o’clock. With its blue and red minutes scale, it’s more than just a practical yachting complication — it also steals the sartorial show.
Cornavin 'Decompression Dial' Dive Watch ($7,200)
Cornavin 'Decompression Dial' Dive Watch - IN THE SHOP
Few left-of-center complications hold as much visual interest as the fascinating decompression scale and accompanying time-only layout of this stunning Corvanin dive watch. In the 1960s, its oversized 42mm case was positively enormous, but it serves an excellent purpose: The piece’s black dial is home to a colorful, multi-tone scale that functions as a decompression table for SCUBA divers. Additionally, the hour function has been moved out of the way and relegated to a small window in the dial center, while the more important minutes are displayed via a conventional, lumed hand.
Omega Ranchero ($7,990)
Omega Ranchero - IN THE SHOP
A rare model in the mold of tool watches such as the Railmaster and the Seamaster, the Ranchero was produced in 1958 and sold poorly — which is unfortunate, because it means that relatively few of these excellent, hand-wound timepieces have survived for us to enjoy today. Thankfully, this example is in stunning shape: Housed in a 35mm stainless steel case, it features a white dial with printed ‘Arabic’ and ‘quadrant’ indices, a unique ‘broad arrow’ handset, and radium lume. Powered by the mechanical Omega 267 Calibre movement and paired to one of our Denham Beige Alpine leather straps, it’s everything we love in a vintage watch.
Grand Seiko Hi-Beat Professional 600m Divers Limited Edition ($8,450)
Grand Seiko Hi-Beat Professional 600m Diver Limited Edition - IN THE SHOP
If you thought Grand Seiko specializes in gorgeous dress watches…well, you’re right! But just as they’ve mastered the elegant, time-only wrist accessory, so too have they mastered the tool watch. This Hi-Beat Professional 600m Divers Limited Edition packs a whopping 600m of water resistance via a 46.9mm titanium case with a unidirectional, ceramic dive bezel; a matching, multi-link bracelet; and a handsome, blue textured dial in the mold of AP’s micro-tapisserie pattern. Powered by a Grand Seiko Caliber 9S85 Hi-Beat movement with a 55-hour power reserve, it’s a wonderful alternative to more standard dive watch fare, and the perfect vacation or everyday timepiece.
Patek Philippe Calatrava ($8,950)
Patek Philippe Calatrava - IN THE SHOP
What can we say about the Patek Philippe Calatrava that hasn’t been said before? Since its debut in 1932, it has come to practically define the term “dress watch.” Simple, elegant, and refined, a Calatrava is truly eternal — just like advertisements claim! This particular example from the 1960s, with its 33mm yellow gold case, sunburst silver dial with slim indices and matching ‘baton’ handset, and hand-wound Patek Philippe Calibre 23-300 movement, is the type of handsome timepiece that you can pass down from generation to generation — once you’re done “taking care of it,” that is!
Tudor Oysterdate Chronograph 'Big Block' ($9,250)
Tudor Oysterdate Chronograph 'Big Block' - IN THE SHOP
Looking for an alternative to tough-to-source, big-name chronographs? What about one from Rolex’s own sister brand, Tudor? The Oysterdate Chronograph ‘Big Block’ is beloved by collectors for its utility, build quality, and good looks — not to mention the tremendous value it packs. This example, housed in a 40mm stainless steel case with screw-down chronograph pushers, fixed tachymeter bezel, and magnified acrylic crystal, features a black ‘reverse panda’ dial with a triple-register chronograph display, a date window, applied indices, and a lumed ‘baton’ handset. Powered by the automatic Valjoux Calibre 7750 movement, it’ll do well in just about any everyday environment.
MB&F M.A.D. 1 Red ($9,900)
MB&F M.A.D. 1 Red - IN THE SHOP
Max Busser’s MB&F designs some of the best avant garde watches in the ‘biz, and this M.A.D. 1 ‘Red’ is no exception. However, unlike some of the brand’s other wares, this piece isn’t astronomically expensive — and there’s a notable reason for that. Inside its futuristic case and beneath its largely transparent dial is the workhorse Miyota 821A automatic movement. Heavily modified, this Japanese calibre displays the time not on the dial, but on the case flank in the form of dual, rotating rings, while the crown is situated at 12 o’clock. Paired to a signed, textured black leather strap with red stitching, this fascinating design gives you access to the world of high-end independent watchmaking without the eye-watering price tag inherent in a watch with an in-house calibre.
