Patek Philippe is the master of complications. Having built its legacy on elaborate movement development, production, and finishing, it makes some of the finest complicated watches in the world. Today, we're putting the Swiss marque in the spotlight by exploring five notable Patek complications and what makes each exciting to collect and explore.
The Manually-Wound Chronograph
Patek Philippe Chronograph Ref. 5172G-001 - IN THE SHOP
Manually-wound chronographs have captured the hearts of collectors for centuries, and Patek makes some of the best in the game. We’re highlighting two examples, References 5172 and 5170. The 5172 is the classic retro callback. This particular iteration, executed in white gold, has a lovely deep blue dial; a heritage-inspired, three-step case; pump pushers with tasti tondi-style engravings; and a 'syringe' handset with matching 'Arabic' numerals. Though it flaunts many vintage-inspired elements, it's also modernized with contemporary sizing and an exhibition caseback to observe the visual beauty its movement.
Patek Philippe Platinum Chronograph Ref. 5170P - IN THE SHOP
Our second piece is a 5170 executed in platinum with a deep blue dial and appliqué diamond baguette indices. This reference features one of the most subtle integrations of precious stones in a man's watch and has thus proven extremely popular among enthusiasts. The 5170 was for a time Patek’s modern hand-wound chronograph — certainly rooted in classic design, it was undoubtedly a contemporary offering stylistically. The baguettes add some interesting contrast and three-dimensionality on the dial.
Annual Calendars
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Moonphase Ref. 5205G - IN THE SHOP
Designed to bridge the gap between time-only watches and grand complications, the Annual Calendar has proven one of Patek’s most successful collections. We have three annual calendars featured here: The first two boast Patek’s updated case profile, with a concave bezel, carved lug flanks, and aperture displays for the date functions. The 5205 is the calendar-only version, and the 5905 adds a flyback chronograph complication to the mix, set within a beautiful green sunburst dial.
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Flyback Chronograph Ref. 5905/1A-001 - IN THE SHOP
Finally, we have a modern release, the Reference 5326 in white gold. This unique piece incorporates a travel time function and has design details that allows it to walk the line between "dressy" and "casual." The 'syringe' hands have returned; a subsidiary seconds, date, and moonphase display sit at 6; and the midcase is engraved with a classic Patek hobnail texture. Plus, this piece flaunts an updated platinum microrotor movement that is both beautiful and high-performing with respect to accuracy and tolerances.
Travel Time Watches
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time - IN THE SHOP
We already highlighted the 5326, one of the most modern travel time pieces in Patek’s collections. We have two additional travel time pieces in our selection today. One is a smaller Calatrava Pilot with travel time functionality. Executed in rose gold, the 7234 has oversized screw-down pushers on the left side of the case that allow for adjustment of the travel time functions on the fly. This particular variant comes with a beautiful brown dial, which warms the whole package’s execution. Typically, Pilot Calatravas are quite oversized, but this particular reference is the midsize execution at 37.5mm in diameter. This allows a sporty design to be experienced by far more wrists. (Personally, we're quite surprised that more collectors aren’t talking about the Ref. 7234.)
Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 7234R - IN THE SHOP
Patek Philippe Aquanaut 'Travel Time'
Our final travel time piece is part of the Aquanaut collection. The Reference 5164A integrates the travel time functionality into a 40.8mm case that wears quite well — sporty yet refined, it's comfortable on a wide variety of wrists. Undeniably, it's one of the best everyday watches on the market.
Perpetual Calendars
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5320 - IN THE SHOP
Our first perpetual calendar offering features an partially inline display that simplifies the perpetual calendar functions into an easily readable, non-cluttered layout. The Reference 5320 also has beautiful stepped lugs, aperture displays for the calendar functions, and a beautiful salmon dial that complements its white gold case.
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Ref. 3940
If you’re instead looking for a more conventional QP, no reference better captures the complication than the 3940. Released in 1985, it was the brand's first watch to flaunt the signature triple-register display the is now synonymous with perpetual calendars more boradly. The proportions are spot-on, the Calibre 240 within provides a beautiful slender profile, and the 36mm case wears perfectly on wrists of a variety of sizes. It’s one of those rare, perfect watches.
World Time
Patek Philippe World Time Cloisonné - IN THE SHOP
Our next piece is one of Patek’s most celebrated, the World Time Reference 5131, which features a striking cloisonné enamel dial. These dials are incredibly difficult to produce, with an extremely high rejection rate due to imperfections in the enameling. Each dial is hand-painted and set with gold trim to outline the motif at the center of the world time rings. Flipping the 5131 over, we see an incredible 240-base micro-rotor movement.
Patek Philippe World Time Cloissoné with Caliber 240 HU
This watch is ultimately at the intersection of Patek’s mastery of both visual and mechanical excellence. Filled to the brim with spectacular craftsmanship, it's a serious statement piece and also boasts one of the complications that Patek is most known for.
Nautilus Moonphase
Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref 5712 - IN THE SHOP
The Patek 5712 is yet another example of complications that placed together in a whimsical layout that somehow works masterfully. Fitted with moonphase display, a subsidiary seconds register, a pointer date, and more, it's asymmetrical layout somehow just works.
Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711 - IN THE SHOP
No Patek roundup is ever complete without a time-only Nautilus, and this piece truly hits it out of the park. Fitted with a beautiful blue ombré dial and the automatic Calibre 324 S C, it's a classic for a reason.
Conclusion
Patek has mastered complications, and while there are dozens more complications and references that Patek has made over its storied career, this provides a great cross-section of what Patek does best with complicated watchmaking. For lovers of horological history and admirers of mechanical complexity, it’s truly hard to find a watchmaker with more command of fine artistry and technical prowess than Patek Philippe. Check out these pieces and more at analogshift.com.
