In the last 20 years, the watch industry has been forever altered. A groundswell of small, independent watchmakers have established a name for themselves, introducing unique, innovative timepieces with ever more complicated, intricate, and sophisticated movements. What is behind this renaissance of small production watchmaking? Today, we are going to find out!
The History of Watch Production
To properly understand this shift in the watch industry, it’s helpful to analyze the evolution of production styles for watch brands throughout history. The earliest references to mechanical clocks come from Dante’s Divine Comedy, written in the early 14th century. Around this time, and into the 15th century, clock towers and larger timekeepers became commonplace across Europe, and watchmaking as a trade proliferated across much of the developed world. For the first several hundred years of watchmaking, watchmakers were still individual artisans, sometimes with a handful of assistants or apprentices at most. This was so true that by the early 1700s, there were so many watchmakers concentrated in Geneva that new artisans began to venture to the Jura mountains to escape the dense concentration of competition.
In 1755, 24-year-old Jean-Marc Vacheron - ( Image by Vacheron Constantin)
In the latter portion of the 18th century, dynamics began to change as standardized production systems allowed true brands for the first time to emerge. Instead of being centered around a core watchmaker, by this point, individual watchmakers began to center around brand identities. With this came the onset of names like Vacheron Constantin in 1755 and Breguet in 1775. Throughout the 19th century, the availability and ease with which mechanized manufacturing grew made the small shop model of watchmaking begin to shrink away. It was simply extremely difficult for any “independent” maker to distinguish themselves when brands like Patek and others were able to make ever more accurate pieces at scale. Thus, the small production clock and watch shops that once characterized Geneva began to consolidate and dissipate.
The original workshop and house where the founders set up business in 1875 in Le Brassus - (Image by Audemars Piguet)
While it is easy to view this as a negative phenomenon, some of the household names of today were built as a result of the shrinking of independent watchmaking. With pipelines of young watchmakers headed to Audemars Piguet, JLC, Rolex and others, larger brands were able to invest in technological enhancements, and help push watchmaking forward. And at this stage, even though solid brands had been established, at the individual level, many watches were still hand finished and treated with the care and attention of a specific dedicated artisan. Brands were operated much more like independents than they are today. Many consider the 1800s through early 1900s to be the golden age of watchmaking.
There was also tremendous incentive for watchmakers to align themselves with larger brands that would provide them with legitimacy and stability while they are starting out. To break away and start your own manufacture, you would need considerable resources, tooling, manpower, and skill. Young apprentices almost never had this option. And so, while some small shops remained, they became the exception rather than the norm as was once the case.
70's Automatic Winding Rolex GMT-Master 'Pepsi' Ref.1675
And then, dynamics began to change. In the 70s, the quartz crisis threatened the traditional watchmaking industry. For the first time, no one needed a mechanical watch. Mechanical watches became a conscious choice rather than a mandated reality. A number of changes were made in the old guard of traditional watchmaking. For one, even though it wasn’t a consciously communicated shift, most Swiss brands that survived shifted further into the luxury category. Rolex, once predominantly a tool watch brand, became the image of luxury. This is something that is taken for granted in the modern day, but if you actually think about it, Rolex’s innovations were in the world of spec. Waterproofing, shock resistance, automatic winding, etc, were all about pushing the limits of the wristwatch as a tool— not as a luxury product. And yet, in a post quartz crisis market, Rolex, and any strong premium watch brand had to resolutely stand out as a different product. If Rolex, Patek and others could brand quartz as a mass market product and position themselves as luxury, quality, handmade items, they could successfully make the case for their value add in the market.
90's Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ref.5066J open caseback - IN THE SHOP
As you might not be surprised to see, in the 80s exhibition casebacks became commonplace. Think that was simply a coincidence? No, on the contrary, it was a carefully considered marketing move by luxury brands. In a sense the messaging was— "we aren’t a quartz mass market manufacturer— look at the exceptional workmanship of our skilled artisans!!!" Patek and Vacheron could do things with movement finish that you simply don’t have on a quartz piece. The strategy worked brilliantly. The luxury segment of the watch industry went on to prosper. Patek released some of its most successful watches ever in the 80s right after the quartz watch’s introduction. Rolex exploded in popularity, reaching unrivaled heights. Dozens of other brands rose to the challenge of quartz and had their glory years in this period.
A subconscious outgrowth of the return to fixating on watchmaking in its purest form was that collectors now demanded higher from watchmakers. The standards of finishing, handwork, movement ingenuity, etc, that collectors came to expect was unlike ever before. And as a result, the opportunity for those previously rare bespoke watchmakers to distinguish themselves once again returned. The manufacturing market was ripe for a renaissance in independent watchmaking.
George Daniels during his career, George Daniels completed 27 unique watches (not including prototypes)- (image by Daniels London)
In 1985, two prominent independent watchmakers formed the AHCI, a group designed to unify the independent watchmaking force of previously separate watchmakers, and provide a platform for the promotion and cultivation of independent watches. Simultaneously, aspiring watchmakers had role models to look to for inspiration. George D aniels, one of the most influential watchmakers in history, published his monumental book “The Art of Breguet” in 1974. Daniels became a cultural sensation in the watch world. He brilliantly took classic works of Breguet and others, and modernized them for contemporary customers. Not only were his contributions significant to the watch industry, they inspired countless other watchmakers to break the centuries-old norm of working for a watch house and take the plunge to set out on one’s own. Internally, the watch industry was ready for an explosion in independent watchmaking.
As mentioned above, the dynamics that pushed the independent watchmaking industry to the forefront were both within the industry, and from the consumer base. Customers were certainly expecting and demanding more from watch brands as a result of the ever growing emphasis on movement finishing and ingenuity, but at the same time, the modern market in almost all industries is characterized by mass production and mechanized manufacturing.
Across industries, the case for artisan crafts and quality, dedicated, handwork has been made ever more clear. When something is readily available, ubiquitous, and perfectly executed, it becomes undesirable to many customers.
Garrick Watchmakers produces a maximum of 50 hand-craftmanship timepieces per anuum. - (Image by Garrick Watchmakers)
Put differently, independent watchmaking, and fine crafts of any kind, are about the pursuit of perfection through a means and process that will definitely yield an imperfect result. Handwork introduces micro imperfections that are the result of the exchange between a craftsperson and their work. That imperfection, albeit minute, is evidence of the craftsperson to craft relationship— a genuine rarity in the modern era. Artisan work humanizes manufacturing into a very personal thing in a unique way. Will a handmade watch be as “perfect” as a machine made one? In all likelihood not, but it is precisely this that makes the handmade watch valuable.
For years, watchmaking was about improving standards of accuracy, making the most precise components repeatedly to deliver reliability, consistency and dependability for watches. On the small production side, the pendulum has swung back. Perfection is a sign of a failure to give the craftsperson agency over their work to pursue their craft in the purest sense. This mentality has given birth to an entirely new degree of appreciation for fine independent watches. If you wanted the most accurate watch, you’d use your phone or your quartz watch. That’s no longer what the conversation is about. Now it’s about design, handwork, and dedication to tradition. What market segment perfectly satisfies this need? Independent watchmaking.
Working model of the co-axial escapement built by George Daniels, Isle of Man, c.1985. -(Image by Worn & Wound)
The confluence of internal and external draws of demand for independent watches was met by an equally eager set of dedicated craftspeople that were more than happy to dedicate themselves to filling this demand. We already touched on George Daniels. He was responsible not only for some of the most beautiful, small production pieces, he democratized watchmaking, focusing on education and training, and codifying many of the practices of the classical masters of watchmaking for the global community. He was also a massive innovator, developing the co-axial escapement in 1976 and patenting it by 1980.
Perhaps Daniels’ most clear successor to the independent watchmaking tradition was Roger Smith, who moved to the Isle of Man to work alongside Daniels and learn from his expertise. Smith then became a sensation of similar magnitude.
His workshop, nestled in the village of Le Solliat, in the heart of the Vallée de Joux, is where he has been crafting some of the most admired watches in horological history for decades. - (Image by Philippe Dufour)
At a similar time, Philippe Dufour graduated from watchmaking school and went to work first for Jaeger Lecoultre. Dufour quickly bounced around a number of high end manufacturers before starting his own collection at Basel watch fair in 1992. Dufour fixated on fine finishing, and created some of the most important watches of the era. Dufour became fabulously famous for his beautiful watches— simple in aesthetic but complex in execution.
François-Paul Journe - (Image by The New York Times)
Perhaps the perfect culmination of these masters was the pivotal work of F.P. Journe. F.P. Journe completely changed the face and trajectory of the independent watch industry. Journe was born in Marseille, France, in 1957, and left school early to study with his Uncle who had a clock shop that worked on many famous works from the likes of Breguet, Antide Janvier, and even Daniels. Journe quickly became fascinated with Daniels, read his books, and began work on a tourbillon of his own. Not only did Journe complete a tourbillon, he incorporated a detent escapement and double barrels. His very first watch was far more complicated than what many watchmakers ever made in their entire career.
F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain "Souscription" circa 1999 - (Image by Sotheby's)
In many respects Journe’s first watch was a metaphorical representation of all that was to come in the years that followed. In 1999 Journe presented his tourbillon wrist watch, and then a year later, the resonance— an exceptional watch that had two escapements and gear trains incorporated into one case. Journe’s creations were a unique blend of traditional approaches and stylistic choices with a decidedly unique, contemporary flavor. Journe watches are both traditional and fresh simultaneously, and it’s this tightrope that Journe walks so masterfully.
F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance 'Brass Movement' - IN THE SHOP
Since 1999, Journe has come up with a staggering number of designs and movements as one of the most prolific makers in the industry. He also paved the way perhaps more than any other watchmaker for others to follow him in creating their own brands. Journe is simultaneously a brand and an independent. Very few independents have managed to establish a brand level recognition like Journe. The manufacturer makes fewer than 1000 watches a year but now has millions of passionate followers. This degree of success is an inspiration that has motivated many other watchmakers to set out on their own.
Schwarz Etienne Roma Synergy By Kari Voutilainen Limited Edition For Goldsmith & Complications - IN THE SHOP
In roughly the same time frame as the rise of Journe, we have also seen the expansion of a number of other wonderful makers with their own idiosyncrasies and defining attributes. Kari Voutilainen is known for his striking guilloché dials and polished balance staffs, De Bethune established a name for itself by creating futuristic designs, much like Urwerk who’s overbuilt creations resemble the watch to be worn in Jurassic Park. Each of these brands is deserving of its own video highlighting its signature style and design considerations.
Laurent Ferrier Galet Micro-Rotor - IN THE SHOP
Regardless, the important point to emphasize is that there's a degree of particularity and specificity that an independent brand can pursue that would never be found in a mass market context. And there's a very good reason for this. When a brand makes 50,000 watches a year, they need to appeal to a market of 50,000 customers. Conversely, a brand that makes only 800 pieces needs 800 customers. This means that a brand like Laurent Ferrier is far less beholden to the customer than say, Patek. And that’s not a bad thing. It means that Laurent Ferrier can make whatever they want, and the customer that is inclined toward the unique design will be attracted to the product because Laurent Ferrier knows no matter what they make, there will be enough customers to justify the making. As a result, there’s a much closer alignment between consumer desire and producer supply in a market of this kind. Independents can cater to a niche taste in a way that a mass market brand would never think of considering.
Everyone wants one and the design is iconic. But let’s say you have a Calatrava and want a Calatrava with some added personality. That’s when you might consider a Rexhep Rexhepi CCII or an F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain.
REXHEP REXHEPI Chronomètre Contemporain II - (Image by Akrivia)
Independent watchmaking has become one of the most beloved corners of the industry. With some of the most impressive innovation coming not from the big houses but from these smaller artisans, we can only expect to continue to watch the independent segment of the watchmaking project to continue to gain momentum.
