Among vintage watch collectors, certain models and brands loom large: the dive watches of Rolex, the perpetual calendars of Patek Philippe, the chronographs watches of Omega. Yet hidden just beneath the surface of 20th-century horology lies a name that played a surprisingly consequential role in the development of professional timing instruments: Gallet.
Founded in 1826 in La Chaux-de-Fonds by Julien Gallet, the company built a reputation producing rugged precision timekeepers for travelers, explorers, and scientists. Over the decades, Gallet’s watches were used in fields ranging from motorsport to aviation, quietly earning a reputation as tools first and luxury objects second. In fact, the brand’s association with adventure dates back to the dawn of powered flight: a Gallet stopwatch was reportedly used to time the Wright brothers’ historic first flight at Kitty Hawk in 1903.
Despite these credentials, Gallet never achieved the global visibility of some Swiss competitors. Instead, it remained something of a specialist manufacturer, producing robust chronographs for professionals who needed reliable timing instruments rather than prestige.
Early History
Like many 19th-century Swiss watchmakers, Gallet began as a family enterprise. Julien Gallet established the company in the heart of the Jura watchmaking region, and by the late nineteenth century the brand had already developed strong export ties to the United States through the importer Jules Racine & Co, which was established by Julien’s grandson.
Gallet’s factory in La-Chaux-De-Fonds as depicted in 1911 - (Image by Coronet)
That American connection would shape much of Gallet’s identity. Throughout the early 20th century the brand cultivated a reputation in the U.S. market for durable chronographs and stopwatches used in laboratories, sporting events, and industrial timing. As wristwatches gradually displaced pocket watches after the First World War, Gallet increasingly focused on purpose-built chronographs designed for professional applications.
The MultiChron Era
In the 1930s, Gallet introduced the family of watches that would come to define its legacy: the MultiChron series. These chronographs were notable for their highly legible dial layouts and specialized scales tailored to particular uses — tachymeters for motorsport, telemeters for scientific measurement, or countdown timers for yacht racing.
Vintage ad of Gallet Multichron Clamshell from 1939 - (Image by Gallet 1826)
One particularly notable model was the MultiChron Clamshell, introduced in 1938. Its distinctive case construction — secured by four screws integrated into the lugs — helped protect the movement from moisture and dust, making it one of the earliest waterproof chronographs.
Such innovations reflected Gallet’s broader philosophy. Rather than emphasizing decorative luxury, the brand focused on creating instruments capable of withstanding the harsh conditions encountered by pilots, engineers, and racers.
A Watch for the Age of Flight
Gallet’s most historically significant model arrived in 1939 with the Flying Officer Chronograph, a watch designed specifically for pilots navigating long-distance routes.
Gallet Flying Officer ad - (Image by Gallet 1826)
The Flying Officer combined a two-register chronograph with a rotating 12-hour bezel and a ring of world cities printed around the dial. By aligning the bezel with the hour hand and referencing the city ring, pilots could quickly determine the time in different locations around the globe — an invaluable capability in the early days of international aviation.
The watch was also notable for combining several innovations rarely seen together at the time: a rotating bezel, multi-time-zone tracking, and chronograph timing in a single wristwatch. This made the Flying Officer one of the earliest examples of a chronograph designed specifically for global navigation.
Its development was closely tied to the rapid expansion of military aviation in the years leading up to the Second World War. Accurate timekeeping was essential for aerial navigation, and the watch was intended to serve pilots who needed to coordinate flight operations across multiple time zones.
President Harry S. Truman famously wore a Gallet Flying Officer - (Image by Coronet)
One early example of the watch was presented to Senator Harry S. Truman — later the 33rd President of the United States — who wore it regularly after assuming office in 1945. With its practical design and aviation pedigree, the Flying Officer would go on to become perhaps the most famous watch ever produced by Gallet.
A Quiet Golden Age
From the late 1930s through the 1960s, Gallet produced a wide range of chronographs tailored to specific professions. The brand’s watches were powered by high-quality movements supplied by respected chronograph specialists such as Excelsior Park, Venus, and Valjoux — further reinforcing their reputation as serious tools for professionals.
Excelsior Park cal. 42 with its unique oval shape in an early silver-coated configuration - (Image by Vintage Watches Inc)
Although Gallet enjoyed particular success in the American market, the company never built the same global marketing presence as some Swiss rivals. Instead, it remained something of a connoisseur’s brand — respected for its engineering but often overshadowed by larger names.
Like many Swiss manufacturers, Gallet struggled during the Quartz Crisis of the 1970s, when inexpensive electronic watches dramatically disrupted the mechanical watch industry. Over time, the brand largely faded from the marketplace, leaving its vintage chronographs to be rediscovered by collectors.
A Modern Revival
This long dormancy will soon come to an end. In 2025, Breitling announced that it had acquired the historic brand and intends to relaunch it in 2026 — exactly 200 years after Gallet’s founding.
Under the plan, Gallet will sit within Breitling’s broader portfolio as a more accessible brand, drawing inspiration from its historical focus on rugged chronographs and exploration-oriented watches. For collectors, the revival could bring renewed attention to a brand whose historical importance has long been underappreciated. (Universal Genève, also recently purchased by Breitling, will be priced above its parent company’s watches, giving Breitling a multi-tiered structure that should appeal to a wide variety of buyers.)
Vintage Gallet
Today, vintage Gallet chronographs offer a compelling window into the era when wristwatches were evolving into professional instruments for aviation, motorsport, and scientific timing. Their purposeful designs, unusual dial configurations, and rich technical heritage give them a distinctive charm that sets them apart from more familiar Swiss tool watches.
With Breitling preparing to revive the brand two centuries after its founding, Gallet will soon return to the spotlight. Until then, its vintage watches remain a fascinating — and often overlooked — chapter in the history of the chronograph. Here are a few examples from the current Analog:Shift inventory.
Gallet Multichron ($6,450)
Gallet Multichron - IN THE SHOP
A beautiful example of the waterproof MultiChron “Clamshell” chronograph, this timepiece from the 1940s features four screws housed within its lugs that hold the caseback secure against the midcase. Measuring 34.5mm in stainless steel, it boasts a well-patinated silver dial in a parchment tone with a central ‘snailed’ telemeter scale, an outer tachymeter scale, prominent ‘Arabic’ indices, a dual-register chronograph display, and a blued steel ‘pencil’ handset. Powered by a hand-wound movement, it comes paired to a brown calf leather strap with contrasting top stitching and a stainless steel pin buckle. If conservative (and attractive) 1940s stylings speak to you, you could scarcely find a better Gallet with which to express yourself!
Gallet Rattrapante Stopwatch ($850)
Gallet Rattrapante Stopwatch - IN THE SHOP
Gallet’s horological prowess extended beyond wristwatches and into the realm of stopwatches. This example, however, is no “mere” stopwatch, but a rattrapante (or “split-seconds”) model: Equipped with dual chronograph seconds hands, it can time two events simultaneously, allowing one to determine, for example, separate lap times for two different horses or runners. Measuring 49mm in stainless steel with a prominent onion crown, it features a beautifully preserved dial with timing scales in red and black, plus a 15-minute counter below 6 o’clock and a set of blued steel hands. In excellent condition, it even includes its box and cloth case denoting its Swiss-made provenance.
